This is a gently sloping glacier route on the SW slopes, with the attraction of solitude over the South Side route. However, when the White Salmon breaks up, some ice work may be required.

Activity Notes

White Salmon Glacier is a moderate climb located on the south west side of Mt. Adams. It has the advantage of more solitude over the usual South Spur route.

Skills Needed:

Climbing snow up to 40 degrees, roped and unroped. Ability to self belay and to do ice axe arrest. Use crampons safely on hard snow or ice (French and front pointing techniques). Knowledge of glacier travel with crevasses (and know how to hold a fall and rescue a climber who has fallen in to one using the Z-system). Use of prussiks to ascend a rope to climb out of crevasse. Stamina for a 12 hour, 5000 foot day

Review the “Freedom of the Hills” if you have any questions or contact the leader.

 

Other Information
Driving Distance from Portland 100 miles
Driving Time from Portland 2 hours
Expected Duration Car to car in two or more days
Relevant Books Selected Climbs in the Cascades by Nelson and Potterfield Cascade Alpine Guide: Columbia River to Stevens Pass by Fred Beckey Climbers Guide to the Cascade Volcanoes by Jeff Smoot
Relevant Maps USGS 7 minute series, Mt. Adams West and Mt. Adams East USDA Forest Service Mt. Adams Wilderness map Google map https://www.google.com/maps/@46.199593,-121.4982232,14.33z/data=!5m1!1e4
Awards Qualified 16 Major NW Peaks, Guardian Peaks
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