As of January 1, 2024, all climbers above 9,500' in the Mt. Hood National Forest are required to carry a permit. As a Mazama member, if you are accepted onto this climb, your permit will be included with your registration—you will not need to arrange your own climbing permit.

This route follows a meandering path across the lower Eliot and Coe Glaciers on the northeast slope of Mt. Hood, providing a long route with few other people. Crevasse negotiation, self reliance and good routefinding skills are needed. This can be a long day, so some parties like to camp on the lower Eliot Glacier and make a 2 day climb out of it. Bring a few ice screws and pickets for the top few pitches. A second ice tool for the leader for pounding pickets is a good idea.

Other Information
Driving Distance from Portland 90 miles
Driving Time from Portland 2 hours
Expected Duration Car to car in one day
Relevant Books Oregon High by Jeff Thomas
Relevant Maps USGS 7 1/2 minute series, Mt Hood South Green Trails Mt. Hood, and GeoGraphics Mt. Hood Google map https://goo.gl/maps/xpHx8xu6pAz
Awards Qualified 16 Major NW Peaks, Guardian Peaks, Seven Oregon Cascades Peaks
Useful Links