Climb Mount Torment, a Grade II, 5.4 rock climb and traverse the ridge to and climb Forbidden Peak, a Grade IV, 5.6 rock climb, in the heart of the North Cascades. Expect great views and a classic northwest alpine rock-climbing experience.

Activity Notes

Steep snow, ice

Transitions from said steep snow onto rock and vice versa

Being able to simul upto 5.6

You should have completed routes like west ridge of stuart AND steel cliffs on Wyeast to feel comfortable on this one

Other Information
Driving Distance from Portland 300 miles
Driving Time from Portland 6 hours
General Route Info Ascent mount torment/south ridge Climb starts at prominent notch in South Ridge. Do not start up either of the two prominent dihedral/gullies branching up and to right. First pitch follows open book to left. Then, turn the corner to right at top of the open book, reach a ledge, and continue up another short open book. The second pitch continues angling up and left across sloping exposed ledges beneath a steep face. In the 3rd and 4th pitches, continue climbing leftward on the Southwest Face. The goal is to reach the right leaning gully shown between the South Ridge and the summit. Do not ascend too high directly up steep rock above. The third pitch traverses ledges and around corner to right into base of gully with a large detached block belay anchor. The fourth pitch starts up short mossy gully past rusty pin, then angle up to left where route becomes cleaner and goes around another corner. The fifth pitch continues via traverse into large, easy gully with loose scree and talus (poor anchors) that leads to big notch in South Ridge. On the sixth pitch, scramble up the gully following the easiest way, slightly to the right, over very crumbly rock. Due to high danger of rock fall unroping here is not recommended. The seventh pitch start once you are up on the notch; traverse on the southeast side to the left and upwards to the next rappel station. On the eighth pitch, continue traversing left to Class 3 terrain; follow it upwards towards the leftmost summit for full rope length. mount torment-forbidden peak traverse Descend from the summit of Mount Torment and head north along the ridge to the base of Forbidden Peak's West Ridge. Expect some routefinding challenges, snow, glacier, and some good bivy sites with great views. Climb the West Ridge of Forbidden Peak. descent mount torment/south ridge Descend either by downclimbing and rappelling the climbing route (longer but eliminates moat problems) or via double-rope rappels down southeast Face. The condition of potentially deep moat at base of southeast face cannot be assessed on route or from the South Col/Southwwest approach. To descend via the southeast face, downclimb to the last rappel station and make 5-6 double rope rappels. The second rappel station is at climbers left. All others are either straight down or at climbers right. Before rappelling over the last cliff onto the snow, look for a rappel station on your left. On the last rappel, you need to cross the moat to reach the snow field, which can be difficult. The first person should carry a picket, ice axe and crampons to facilitate climbing out of the moat if necessary. Ascend a short but steep snowfield and a Class 4 scramble up to the notch.
Expected Duration Car to car in two or more days
Interesting Features Glacier(s), Lake(s), Mountain Views, Ridgelines, Spectacular Views
Awards Qualified Awesome Ridges Award
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