As of January 1, 2024, all climbers above 9,500' in the Mt. Hood National Forest are required to carry a permit. As a Mazama member, if you are accepted onto this climb, your permit will be included with your registration—you will not need to arrange your own climbing permit.

This route, with longer, steeper snow pitches, can be a good alternative to the crowded Hogsback. Bring pickets - you may need them. Assess avalanche conditions carefully before getting on this route. Staying at Mazama Lodge the night before can get you off to an early and well rested start.

Activity Notes

BCEP/equivalent folks welcome to apply. We will aim for west crater rim, but switch to one of the chutes if it looks sketch.

The aim is to summit before sunrise, hangout and watch the sunrise, descend

pace will be slow (1-2), but folks are expected to have been in good conditioning

Gear:

Crampons (fit these prior to coming), boots, 10 essentials, puffies for the summit or naps, helmet, harness, prusiks, belay device with lockers, 2 ice tools (axes) like petzl sumtecs or similar straight shafted with leashes, strong coffee, a cheerful demeanor

Everyone is expected to meet at 9PM at the timberline lodge ready to go.

Please fill this out ahead of time. It is timberlines new policy for the 2026 season.

https://timberlinelodge.com/mountain/safety/uphill-travel-boundary-policy/

Other Information
Driving Distance from Portland 65 miles
Driving Time from Portland 1 hours
Expected Duration Car to car in one day
Relevant Books Oregon High by Jeff Thomas
Relevant Maps USGS 7 1/2 minute series, Mt Hood South, Green Trails Mt. Hood, and Geo Graphics Mt. Hood <href="http: "="" adventure="" c463="" starts-here="" title="On the Mazama Climbing and Hiking map page " www.mazamas.org="" your="">On the Mazama Climbing and Hiking map page <href="http: maps.google.com="" maps?f="q&source=s_q&hl=en&geocode=&q=mt+hood&sll=44.674285,-121.798955&sspn=0.018707,0.04549&t=p&ie=UTF8&ll=45.373825,-121.695642&spn=0.01851,0.045233&z=15&iwloc=addr"" title="Google maps">Google maps</href="http:></href="http:>
Awards Qualified 16 Major NW Peaks, Guardian Peaks, Seven Oregon Cascades Peaks
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