Cutthroat Peak, North Ridge

Activity Notes

This is certain to be an exceptional and comparatively unusual climb. It is a beautiful and seldom climbed peak.  We will travel to Chelan, Washington on Thursday, August 13th. On Friday, Aug 14th we will catch the ferry across Lake Chelan to Lucerne. From there, we will take a bus to Holden Village, where our human powered adventure will begin.  We will hike to our camp at Holden Lake.  On Saturday we will get an early start and ascend to Mary Green Glacier, where we will navigate crevasses and a moat, before switching to scrambling and low fifth class climbing on rock to achieve the summit.

After relaxing, refueling and celebrating on the summit, we will retrace our route by downclimbing and rappeling to the glacier, and then head back toward camp. Depending on energy and timing, we may shift our camp downhill toward Holden Village, to allow for a shorter day on Sunday, and our return to Portland.

This route was pioneered by the Mazamas, requiring several attempts before being successfully summited in 1937.