The Disappointment Cleaver route on Rainier is the most climbed route on the mountain, and is among the least technical. With Rainier Mountaineering guiding the majority is their clients up this route, the Cleaver sees a lot the approximately 10,000 annual summit attempts. This is a long strenuous climb (9,000 vertical feet) and demands solid aerobic conditioning. $30 climb fee per person. Call the NPS or see their web site for the latest permit regulations. The Ingraham Glacier route is an alternative often used in early season when avy danger is high on the Cleaver route. Try it on a weekday for more solitude.

Activity Notes

Standard route up the big one!

Permit is from July 5th-8th, however, this will very likely be a two day climb.

Our small group will leave early on the 5th, get our permits from Paradise at around 8AM, head up to Muir for the night, start up in the wee hours of the 6th, and either go up, down, and out that day, or stay back in camp for a nap or for the night, leaving the 7th. I have the extra night as a buffer for weather, so that we have a better chance of success. 

Please have crevasse rescue skills dialed and be an ICS grad or with relevant experience. I don't yet have an assistant but am willing to take an LD candidate who wants an evaluation. 

We will share expenses, though the Park Entrance Fee - $30/car or $80 for an America the Beautiful Pass, will not apply as it is Independence Day Weekend, and entry is free. Each person will need to get their own individual annual climbing permit before we go up. Worth waiting until we know we're going, and the $36 camping permit will be paid to me. 

  • Camping Permit - $36/person
  • Annual Climbing Permit - $82/person 
Other Information
Driving Distance from Portland 150 miles
Driving Time from Portland 3 hours
Expected Duration Car to car in two or more days
Relevant Books Climbers Guide to the Cascade Volcanoes by Jeff Smoot Cascade Alpine Guide: Columbia River to Stevens Pass by Fred Beckey Selected Climbs in the Cascades by Nelson and Potterfield
Relevant Maps USGS 7 minute series, Mt. Rainier East
Awards Qualified 16 Major NW Peaks
Useful Links GPS Track New Window Icon Icon two stacked browser windows. GPS Coordinates New Window Icon Icon two stacked browser windows. Map New Window Icon Icon two stacked browser windows.
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