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*Please note; climb fee includes climbing permit ($22/person); the climbing permit fee is nonrefundable since it must be purchased in advance.
The Monitor Ridge route is the standard summer route, with the trailhead starting about 1000 feet higher than the winter snow park area.
St. Helens is one of the lower and technically easier glaciated peaks in the Pacific NW, but still a strenuous climb as the starting elevation is relatively low. The peak is often underestimated; exposure and route finding challenges in low visibility can make this peak a serious as any in the Northwest. Watch out for the cornices on the summit crater! This is a classic NW ski climb, with long open runs, minimal avy danger, and no crevasses. This can be a nice overnight trip as well - ski in, make camp, and hike up for some tele turns. Permits and Stuff: St Helens is one of the most heavily regulated peaks in the US. See the Gifford Pinchot National Forest web site for curent permit regulations, on the Mazamas Links page. Snow park permit required (OR permits are okay) between Nov 15 and April 30.
Activity Notes
Starting May 1, permits are required to climb Mount St. Helens. Permits have already been secured; if you are accepted on this climb, you will be required to reimburse the leader $20 via Venmo. This fee is non-refundable.
The Monitor Ridge climbing route is the standard summer route to the summit, but it also provides a great spring ascent when snow still covers the mountain. This will be a snow climb—crampons and an ice axe are required, and snowshoes may be necessary depending on conditions.
We will begin near Climber’s Bivouac on the south side of the volcano. The road is typically still closed in early spring, which adds approximately 2 extra miles of approach hiking each way. The climb will start via Ptarmigan Trail #216A.
Be aware of a dangerous cornice that forms along the summit crater. This overhanging snow feature develops on the leeward side and can extend far beyond the visible edge, making it extremely unstable. Stay at least 30 feet (9 meters) back from the edge at all times. There may be no markers indicating the hazard zone, and the summit drift may limit visibility into the crater. Exercise extreme caution in this area.
| Other Information | |
|---|---|
| Driving Distance from Portland | 80 miles |
| Driving Time from Portland | 1 hours |
| Expected Duration | Car to car in one day |
| Relevant Books | Climbers Guide to the Cascade Volcanoes by Jeff Smoot Cascade Alpine Guide: Columbia River to Stevens Pass by Fred Beckey Selected Climbs in the Cascades by Nelson and Potterfield |
| Relevant Maps | USGS 7 minute series, Mt. St. Helens, WA Green Trails, Mt St. Helens (If you get a topo map, be sure it’s 1980 or later. You may have a L O N G climb if you don’t! =^) Google map https://www.google.com/maps/@46.1896099,-122.196597,14.11z/data=!5m1!1e4?hl=en |
| Awards Qualified | 16 Major NW Peaks, Guardian Peaks |
| Useful Links | GPS Track GPS Coordinates Map |
