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This is a prominent peak very close to Rainy Pass in the North Cascades. Beckey calls the NE route €œmore technical route than the normal way, but not forbidding; the ridge is exposed class 3 and 4 with one class 5 pitch."
Activity Notes
This is a good intro to longer moderate alpine rock routes. We will be free-soloing 4th class with limited exposure, using a fixed line on the one steep (5.4) step, and simulclimbing in pairs where steep and exposed. At least half the team needs to be familiar with simulclimbing on steep rock, i.e. AR-level skills. I'll do some teaching on how to make this fast and safe!
We plan to camp at Wing Lake before and after the climb. If we are super-fast we might hike out day of the climb, but unlikely. I plan to do another climb in the area afterward, so won't return to Portland.
Plan on taking a light axe for possible snow gaining the saddle, but this season that may be totally gone by August.
| Other Information | |
|---|---|
| Driving Distance from Portland | 330 miles |
| Driving Time from Portland | 7 hours |
| Expected Duration | Car to car in two or more days |
| Relevant Books | Cascade Alpine Guide: Columbia River to Stevens Pass by Fred Beckey |
| Relevant Maps | Green Trails, Washington Pass, WA, No. 50, and Mt. Logan, WA, No. 49 <href="http: maps.google.com="" maps?f="q&source=s_q&hl=en&geocode=&q=Black+Peak+WA&sll=36.919389,-116.81395&sspn=0.010533,0.022616&g=Black+Peak&ie=UTF8&ll=48.523455,-120.815663&spn=0.017452,0.045233&t=p&z=15&iwloc=addr"" title="Google map">Google map</href="http:> |
| Useful Links | GPS Track GPS Coordinates Map |
