Mt. Olympus, Blue Glacier

Activity Notes

Mt. Olympus is one of the most remote climbs in the Mazamas catalog. We'll arrange carpools and leave from the leader's house at 7:00am on Thursday, July 23rd, drive up to the Ho River Ranger Station (578') and hike into the Olympic Guard Station (mile 9 & 948'), where we'll camp Thursday night. On Friday, we'll hike up to Glacier Meadows (mile 17.2 & 4,200')and camp there. Saturday is summit day, and Sunday, we'll make the long hike out and return to Portland.

Hiking through the Ho River Valley is an enchanting experience. We'll only gain about 900' in elevation for the first 13 miles and 2800' in the last 4 miles.

Summit day departs from Glacier Meadows. We'll hike way trail 0.8 mi to the top of the Blue Glacier moraine. Turn left and follow way trail along the top of the moraine for 0.2 mi or so before descending onto the Blue Glacier (watch for rockfall while descending). Rope up here. 

Cross the flat glacier and ascend snow slopes, through and around rock islands, to the crest of the Snow Dome (6,600 ft), keeping left of the biggest rock buttress. Proceed south-southeast through one of two passes left, or far left, of the five-fingered false summit, which is east of the summit, and approach the unseen summit from the east or southeast side. Drop into the sharp saddle between the false summit and the now-visible summit.

Climb a steep snow slope (good runout!) to its flat top, at the base of the 80 ft summit rock on its northeast side. A Class 4 route with a Class 5 step that winds across the east face up series of ramps and then up to the summit. Beware of loose rock on ramps and rockfall from above. We'll likely protect a very exposed corner with a fixed rope or belays.

The descent is the reverse of the approach.