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Glacier Peak is the most remote peak we climb in the Cascade Range. No road penetrates within eight miles of the mountain and many approach hikes are more than 10 miles long. The fall floods of 2003 destroyed many road and trail bridges in the Glacier Peak Wilderness, and many have not yet been rebuilt. At present, the Cool Glacier route, once considered long, has become the most accessible route.
Activity Notes
This is a four day climb of Glacier Peak via the Cool Glacier route. This is a long climb with lots of elevation gain in a very remote area of the Cascades.
Tentative Itinerary:
Day 1: Leave early from Portland, drive 6 hours to TH and hike to a camp.
Day 2: Hike up in elevation to a higher camp.
Day 3: Navigate the glacier and attempt a summit. Descend and move to a lower camp.
Day 4: Rise early, hike out and drive home.
I need strong backcountry experience and crevasse rescue skills for this one. If you do not have crevasse rescue training, please do not apply. Crevasse rescue training consists of at least a one-day class on snow where anchors were built after team arrest and then haul systems were employed in addition to other standard crevasse rescue practices. Depending on team selection, we may review these skills in town before the climb.
Once skills and experience are accounted for, I make every effort to balance my climbs with team members of different genders and backgrounds. I'm committed to creating safe and fulfilling experiences for everyone in the mountains.
| Other Information | |
|---|---|
| Driving Distance from Portland | 270 miles |
| Driving Time from Portland | 5 hours |
| General Route Info | Mt. Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest, Darrington Ranger District Office 360-436-1155 Summitpost https://www.summitpost.org/white-chuck-gerdine-cool-glaciers/166764 |
| Expected Duration | Car to car in two or more days |
| Interesting Features | Glacier(s) |
| Relevant Books | Selected Climbs in the Cascades, Vol.II by Nelson and Potterfield Cascade Alpine Guide: Stevens Pass to Rainy Pass by Fred Beckey Summit Guide to the Cascade Volcanoes by Jeff Smoot |
| Relevant Maps | Glacier Peak, USGS 7 minute series Green Trails, #112 (Glacier Peak) Google map https://goo.gl/maps/5Qj7vVNuanK2 Some nice GPS tracks and topo maps by Karl Helser: karl-helser.com |
| Awards Qualified | 16 Major NW Peaks |
| Useful Links | GPS Track GPS Coordinates Map |
