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The Disappointment Cleaver route on Rainier is the most climbed route on the mountain, and is among the least technical. With Rainier Mountaineering guiding the majority is their clients up this route, the Cleaver sees a lot the approximately 10,000 annual summit attempts. This is a long strenuous climb (9,000 vertical feet) and demands solid aerobic conditioning. $30 climb fee per person. Call the NPS or see their web site for the latest permit regulations. The Ingraham Glacier route is an alternative often used in early season when avy danger is high on the Cleaver route. Try it on a weekday for more solitude.
Activity Notes
Three day climb of the DC route. Permits secured.
Fees (approx):
- Camping Permit - $24/person
- Annual Climbing Permit - $82/person
- Park Entrance Fee - $30/car or $80 for yearly pass
Acceptance on the climb constitutes agreement to cover your share of these fees.
I need strong backcountry experience and crevasse rescue skills for this one. If you do not have crevasse rescue training, please do not apply. Crevasse rescue training consists of at least a one-day class on snow where anchors were built after team arrest and then haul systems were employed in addition to other standard crevasse rescue practices. Depending on team selection, we may review these skills in town before the climb.
Our camping permits are for the Muir Snowfield, just below Camp Muir. Day 1 we’ll hike to around 9600ft and make camp. On summit day, Day 2, we’ll leave early and hike through Camp Muir to pick up the DC route to the summit Back to camp and then hike out Day 3.
Once skills and experience are accounted for, I make every effort to balance my climbs with team members of different genders and backgrounds. I'm committed to creating safe and fulfilling experiences for everyone in the mountains.
| Other Information | |
|---|---|
| Driving Distance from Portland | 150 miles |
| Driving Time from Portland | 3 hours |
| Expected Duration | Car to car in two or more days |
| Relevant Books | Climbers Guide to the Cascade Volcanoes by Jeff Smoot Cascade Alpine Guide: Columbia River to Stevens Pass by Fred Beckey Selected Climbs in the Cascades by Nelson and Potterfield |
| Relevant Maps | USGS 7 minute series, Mt. Rainier East |
| Awards Qualified | 16 Major NW Peaks |
| Useful Links | GPS Track GPS Coordinates Map |
