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Mt. Jefferson, the second highest mountain in Oregon, is a challenge by any route. The Whitewater route is a LONG day, with a 12 mile total climb across the largest glacier in Oregon. Leave wands on the way up so you can use them on the way back. This route is technically easier then Jeff Park Glacier.
Activity Notes
This will provide a good opportunity to do a less frequently travelled route to the summit of Mount Jefferson, the second highest peak in Oregon. We will approach from the Northwest side and travel through the Jeff Park area, which is gorgeous in it own right, and also provides a beautiful view of Mount Jefferson as we approach.
Because of the long distances over multiple days, and significant elevation gain applicants will want to ensure they are fit. In addition, participants need to be comfortable with roped travel, including moving through running belays, and using a prussik on a fixed line.
We will aim to depart on Sunday, July 5th from the White Water Trailhead. We will camp below the Jeff Park glacier that night. In the first hours of July 6th we will begin our traverse of the Whitewater Glacier, move up to the Red Saddle, traverse a steep snow field with significant exposure and ultimately scramble to the summit. We will return to camp after what is typically a 15-20 hour day and sleep one more night on the mountain before returning to our cars and heading home on Tuesday, July 7th.
If the weather or access to permits becomes a problem, we may move the climb back a day or two.
| Other Information | |
|---|---|
| Driving Distance from Portland | 120 miles |
| Driving Time from Portland | 2 hours |
| General Route Info | This is a challenging climb which has a bit of everything-scree scrambling, a traverse of the biggest glacier in Oregon (and the biggest crevasses!) glacier travel through crevasses, traverse with exposure, and a rock climb finish. It is a 10 mile round trip from Jeff Park. The route circles around the mountain on the Whitewater Glacier and ascends the pinnacle directly above camp. Please review all of your glacier travel techniques, crevasse rescue, and rock climbing skills, especially putting in fixed lines and the techniques for moving on them with prusiks or carabiners and for using a running belay. |
| Expected Duration | Car to car in two or more days |
| Relevant Books | Oregon High by Jeff Thomas |
| Relevant Maps | USGS 7 minute series, Mt. Jefferson, and Geo-Graphics Mt, Jefferson <href="http: "="" adventure="" c463="" starts-here="" title="On the Mazama Climbing and Hiking map page " www.mazamas.org="" your="">On the Mazama Climbing and Hiking map page <href="http: maps.google.com="" maps?f="q&source=s_q&hl=en&geocode=&q=mt+jefferson+OR&sll=44.71929,-123.120211&sspn=2.392595,5.822754&ie=UTF8&t=p&z=15"" title="Google maps">Google maps</href="http:></href="http:> |
| Awards Qualified | 16 Major NW Peaks, Seven Oregon Cascades Peaks |
