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As of January 1, 2024, all climbers above 9,500' in the Mt. Hood National Forest are required to carry a permit. As a Mazama member, if you are accepted onto this climb, your permit will be included with your registration—you will not need to arrange your own climbing permit.
This route is a step up in commitment, difficulty and reward from the standard South side. Early season is best. A second ice tool can be useful, as can ice screws. While a one day ascent is common, camping at Illumination Saddle the night before will reward you with great views and an early and well rested start. Bring the backcountry skis for a great ski down after breaking camp.
| Other Information | |
|---|---|
| Driving Distance from Portland | 65 miles |
| Driving Time from Portland | 1 hours |
| Distance - Round Trip | 7 miles |
| Expected Duration | Car to car in one day |
| Interesting Features | Glacier(s) |
| Relevant Books | Oregon High by Jeff Thomas Climbers Guide to the Cascade Volcanoes by Jeff Smoot |
| Relevant Maps | USGS 7 1/2 minute series, Mt Hood South, Green Trails Mt. Hood, Geo-Graphics Mt. Hood Google map https://www.google.com/maps/@45.3724675,-121.7112291,14z/data=!5m1!1e4 |
| Awards Qualified | 16 Major NW Peaks, Guardian Peaks, Seven Oregon Cascades Peaks |
| Useful Links | GPS Track GPS Coordinates Map |
