Scheduled outside of paid permit seasons, Nov. 1–March 31.

This route is open year round from the Marble Mountain Snow Park, so it's usually used for early season ascents. It's about 1,000 more vertical feet than Monitor ridge. Snow can be soft early season due to the low starting elevation, so bring skis or snowshoes in case. St. Helens is one of the lower and technically easier glaciated peaks in the Pacific NW, but still a strenuous climb as the starting elevation is relatively low. The peak is often underestimated; exposure and route finding challenges in low visibility can make this peak a serious as any in the Northwest. Watch out for the cornices on the summit crater!

This is a classic NW ski climb, with long open runs, minimal avy danger, and no crevasses. This can be a nice overnight trip as well - ski in, make camp, and hike up for some tele turns. Permits and Stuff: St Helens is one of the most heavily regulated peaks in the US. See the Gifford Pinchot National Forest web site for current permit regulations, SnoPark permit required between Nov 15 and April 30.

Activity Notes

We will be climbing Mt. St. Helens via the Swift Creek/Worm Flows winter route, departing from Marble Mountain Sno-Park. This is a winter ascent, and all climbers are expected to have basic avalanche awareness skills, including the ability to perform a beacon search.  All participants must wear an avalanche beacon. If you do not own one, you may borrow a beacon from the Mazamas.

I aim to maintain a moderate, steady pace and keep the team moving efficiently throughout the day. Our effort level will roughly match Timberline Lodge to Silcox Hut in under one hour with a climbing pack.  With a similar effort applied to Mt. St. Helens, we should expect a summit time of approximately 5 hours, depending on conditions.

Please reach out with any questions or concerns before the climb.

Required Gear:

  • Ice axe
  • Crampons
  • Helmet
  • Avalanche beacon
  • Shovel
  • Probe
Other Information
Driving Distance from Portland 80 miles
Driving Time from Portland 2 hours
Distance - Round Trip 12 miles
General Route Info summitpost: https://www.summitpost.org/mount-saint-helens/150360
Expected Duration Car to car in one day
Relevant Books Climbers Guide to the Cascade Volcanoes by Jeff Smoot Cascade Alpine Guide: Columbia River to Stevens Pass by Fred Beckey Selected Climbs in the Cascades by Nelson and Potterfield
Relevant Maps USGS 7 minute series, Mt. St. Helens, WA Green Trails, Mt St. Helens Google map https://goo.gl/maps/dudyw1gC3fn
Awards Qualified 16 Major NW Peaks, Guardian Peaks
Useful Links GPS Track New Window Icon Icon two stacked browser windows. GPS Coordinates New Window Icon Icon two stacked browser windows. Map New Window Icon Icon two stacked browser windows.
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