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Mt. Jefferson is the second highest mountain in Oregon, and a notch up in difficulty and commitment than the South side of Hood. The South Ridge is the easiest route, mostly a long ridge of class 3 scrambling. But do not underestimate this route. The last 200 vertical feet are kinda tricky! This route has a long fixed line traverse of an exposed 50+ degree snow field, (very loose scree/rock in late season) followed by a 4th class scramble to the single rock block of the summit. Long days and unexpected bivies are common on this peak. In a big group, 4 ropes and a lot of pickets are a good idea, 3 to fix the traverse and one for the summit block.
This is a limited use area, you will need a permit.
Activity Notes
The dates of this climb may move based on weather +/- 3 days, so only apply if you can be flexible from 7/5-7/13. Planning to spend two nights on the mountain.
As far as climbing speed goes, you should be able to get from Timberline lodge to Silcox Hut at moderate effort on Mt Hood in 45mins with a 25lb pack to feel comfortable with the planned pace on this climb...
| Other Information | |
|---|---|
| Driving Distance from Portland | 120 miles |
| Driving Time from Portland | 2 hours |
| General Route Info | SummitPost.org; MountainForecast.org; Willamette Nat. Forest, Detroit Ranger District: 503-854-3366 |
| Expected Duration | Car to car in two or more days |
| Interesting Features | Spectacular Views |
| Relevant Books | Oregon High by Jeff Thomas |
| Relevant Maps | USGS 7 minute series, Mt. Jefferson, and Geo-Graphics Mt, Jefferson Google map https://goo.gl/maps/pqJxBofhaCQ2 |
| Awards Qualified | 16 Major NW Peaks, Seven Oregon Cascades Peaks |
| Useful Links | GPS Track GPS Coordinates Map |
