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The most commonly misspelled peak in Oregon and one of a handful of alpine rock routes, this is a fairly easy day climb. It may look quite challenging from the start, but the technical climbing is just one pitch of easy 5th class rock at the top. Duct taping your boot tops is recommended for the scree descent. An apres climb swim in Diamond Lake is recommended.
Known as “the Lightning Rod of the Cascades”, the striking summit of Mt. Thielsen is the 7th highest peak in Oregon. The peak was named for a pioneer road builder, Hans Thielsen. It is similar in age and structure to Three Fingered Jack and Mt Washington, where glaciation and other types of erosion have left a relatively solid exposed plug of basaltic andesite. The plug is excellent rock in contrast to the rest of the mountain, which is generally poor. There is a small remnant glacier on Thielsen, and thus summiting this peak qualifies one for Mazamas membership.
The first ascent was done in 1883.
Activity Notes
This is a great alpine rock climb for new BCEP graduates.
The approach to the summit block is about 4.5 miles with 3700 feet of elevation gain. The final mile or so is on loose rock and scree. The summit block requires climbing an 80-foot pitch of class 4 or low 5th class rock which will be protected with a "recycled" belay. We’ll do a single rappel to the base and then hike out.
Please ensure that your Mazamas profile is up-to-date and includes relevant information about your fitness level.
We’ll meet at the trailhead at 7:30 am. It’s a 4 - 5 hour drive from Portland. For those who wish to stay in the area before and/or after the climb, there are over 300 camp sites at nearby Diamond Lake. At this time of year they are first-come, first-served. There is also a resort with motel rooms and cabins. If you'd like to get more out of the long drive, you might consider visiting Crater Lake. The North Entrance is just minutes away.
Team selection will be completed by September 8.
| Other Information | |
|---|---|
| Driving Distance from Portland | 250 miles |
| Driving Time from Portland | 5 hours |
| General Route Info | summitpost https://www.summitpost.org/mount-thielsen/150419 mountain forecast https://www.mountain-forecast.com/peaks/Mount-Thielsen/forecasts/2797 |
| Expected Duration | Car to car in one day |
| Relevant Books | Oregon High by Jeff Thomas |
| Relevant Maps | USGS 7 minute series, Mt. Thielsen and Diamond Lake Google map https://goo.gl/maps/xg6vS1k4prQ2 |
| Useful Links | GPS Track GPS Coordinates Map |
