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There is a tiny remnant glacier on this otherwise all-rock peak, which is one of the few one day alpine rock routes in Oregon. It's a good beginner climb for those who want to see if they like alpine rock routes. Great exposure on the famous "Crawl". Two ropes can be handy for fixing the Crawl and leading the summit block. Bring a few long pieces of webbing to sling rocks for the fixed line anchors, and a selection of large stoppers for rock pro. Leave some water stashed at the climbers trail-PCT junction. You'll want to get an early start on weekends - it can be a long day if the route is busy.
Activity Notes
While the rock climbing is easy on this, the overall climb is definitely a notch harder/riskier than that of other easy alpine rock climbs. I will be looking for some experience on other alpine rock climbs before selecting anyone as a team member.
Note: this climb was originally scheduled at the end of August, but smoke from nearby fires led to it getting postponed into mid September.
| Other Information | |
|---|---|
| Driving Distance from Portland | 130 miles |
| Driving Time from Portland | 2 hours |
| General Route Info | summitpost https://www.summitpost.org/three-fingered-jack/150461 mountain forecast https://www.mountain-forecast.com/peaks/Three-Fingered-Jack/forecasts/2390 erics base camp trip report and photos http://ericsbasecamp.net/trips/3FingeredJack/3FingeredJack.htm |
| Expected Duration | Car to car in one day |
| Relevant Books | Oregon High by Jeff Thomas |
| Relevant Maps | USGS 7 minute series, Three Fingered Jack, and USFS Mt. Jefferson Wilderness map Google map https://goo.gl/maps/WoPBF24taUD2 |
| Awards Qualified | 16 Major NW Peaks, Seven Oregon Cascades Peaks |
| Useful Links | GPS Track GPS Coordinates Map |