The Kautz Glacier route is a popular choice for intermediate climbers, offering more technical challenges and a LOT fewer people then the popular Emmons and DC routes.

Activity Notes

Climbers should have experience climbing 14k feet or more

Climbers should have experience following WI3 or higher

Crevasse rescue/snow anchors is important as this is a small team

We will descend the same route, so it isn’t a carryover

Skis are ok, travel on foot is also fine 

Dates are weather and permit dependent

 

Other Information
Driving Distance from Portland 150 miles
Driving Time from Portland 3 hours
Expected Duration Car to car in two or more days
Relevant Books Selected Climbs in the Cascades Volume 2 by Nelson and Potterfield Cascade Alpine Guide, Volume 1 by Fred Beckey
Relevant Maps USGS 7 minute series, Mt. Rainier East and West <href="http: "="" adventure="" c463="" starts-here="" title="On the Mazama Climbing and Hiking map page " www.mazamas.org="" your="">On the Mazama Climbing and Hiking map page <href="http: maps.google.com="" maps?f="q&source=s_q&hl=en&geocode=&q=Mt.+Rainier&sll=37.0625,-95.677068&sspn=40.732051,93.164063&ie=UTF8&ll=46.849802,-121.757483&spn=0.017229,0.04549&t=p&z=15&iwloc=A"" title="Google map">Google map</href="http:></href="http:>
Awards Qualified 16 Major NW Peaks
Useful Links GPS Track New Window Icon Icon two stacked browser windows. GPS Coordinates New Window Icon Icon two stacked browser windows. Map New Window Icon Icon two stacked browser windows.
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