The second highest peak of the Olympic Mountains, Deception climbing is described in the guidebook as "steep, exposed and quite serious". Early season climbing (before July 1) is strongly preferred to avoid what Smoot's guidebook calls "nightmarishly loose rock". This is NOT a casual walk up scramble peak, Camp in upper Royal Basin, about 1 mile above Royal Lake, for much better views, less bugs and fewer crowds. There are 2 good group camps sites here on large gravel bars, next to the tarn. A direct ascent of the NE gully route is the most straightforward, with about 5-6 pitches of 45-50 degree snow. A competent team can solo this with caution. Coming down this way would be . . . exciting. This peak can be easily combined with neighbor peak Mt. Mystery for a nice double on a 3 day weekend. Backcountry permits and bear cans are required in Olympic National Park. Ask for a permit in Upper Royal Basin, not Royal Lake. Bring treats for the nice backcountry rangers.

Activity Notes

**Alternate climb for cancelled Baker attempt. Climbers accepted to Baker are top priority, but Waitlist is very short.**

 

OVERVIEW

https://caltopo.com/m/Q1K74SS

Mt. Deception (7,786 ft-e, 4,129 ft-p, WA #17 Top 100 Prominence)

https://www.peakbagger.com/peak.aspx?pid=941

 

LOGISTICS

Each car must have a NW Forest Pass to park at the trailhead. Must be purchased ahead of time - easiest online but could get from local vendor if necessary.<br> https://www.fs.usda.gov/detail/r6/passes-permits/recreation/?cid=fsbdev2_027010

 

GEAR LIST AND PROSPECTUS

Will be sent by email.

 

SCHEDULE

  • May 24 Sat
    • 12:00 (11:45am team meeting) - TH to Camp (Royal Lake or Upper Basin), 8-9 mi / 3000-3600 ft, 4-5 hr
  • May 25 Sun
    • 05:00 - Camp to Deception, 4-6 mi, / 2200-2800 ft, 3-5 hr
    • ~09:00 - Summit to Camp, 2-3 hr
    • Decide to camp or hike out
  • May 26 Mon DEPART
    • ~07:00 - Camp to TH (by 12pm), 8-9 mi / -3000-3600 ft, 3-4 hr

**Flexible to extend up to May 28 Wed as weather option.**

 

**Note to potential applicants**: 

The first priority is ensuring fitness and well-balanced experience for the team. You can make this easier for leaders to evaluate by having a thorough climb resume linked externally, e.g. Google Sheets (see mine as an example, albeit extreme https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1HO1FJPx3ro3HRTbe82DN8OhZqFwt7d4a2IVai5kKngY/edit?usp=sharing) with Peak, Route, Date as minimum. The more detailed the better, including attempts without summit! 

Also, describe SPECIFIC details of your CURRENT fitness - excessively slow climbers will be left in camp. (Fitness Assessment Rule of Thumb: on a treadmill, be able to maintain a minimum speed of 2.0mph @ 15% for at least 1 hour with 25+lb pack.)

After experience and fitness, I then give priority to selecting team members who: 

  1. actively volunteer with the Mazamas, especially LD/those interested in becoming climb leaders!!
  2. have not been accepted on other climbs/been accepted on few climbs for the season. 

These are preferences, NOT requirements, and I always try to include several qualified newbies and people I haven't climbed with yet, amongst other equity-minded choices. Feel free to contact me any time about climbs with questions or additional information! 

Other Information
Driving Distance from Portland 210 miles
Driving Time from Portland 4 hours
General Route Info Summitpost - https://www.summitpost.org/mount-deception/151109 Possible place to rent bear canisters is called Wild Birds Unlimited, in the small town of Gardenier, at Hwy 101 mile post #276. call first! This is not a route for beginners. There is some extremely sketchy loose rock on downsloping exposed slabs, with very few places for pro.
Expected Duration Car to car in two or more days
Relevant Books Climber's Guide to the Olympic Mountains by Olympic Mountain Rescue Climbing Washington's Mountains by Jeff Smoot
Relevant Maps Custom Correct Maps, Grey Wolf - Dosewallips and Buckhorn Wilderness, USGS Mt Deception, Green Trails #136 Google map https://goo.gl/maps/YittZYd9wbC2
Useful Links GPS Track New Window Icon Icon two stacked browser windows. GPS Coordinates New Window Icon Icon two stacked browser windows. Map New Window Icon Icon two stacked browser windows.
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