Glacier Peak is the most remote peak we climb in the Cascade Range. No road penetrates within eight miles of the mountain and many approach hikes are more than 10 miles long. The fall floods of 2003 destroyed many road and trail bridges in the Glacier Peak Wilderness, and many have not yet been rebuilt. At present, the Cool Glacier route, once considered long, has become the most accessible route.

Activity Notes

Glacier Peak is the most remote peak in the Cascade Range climbed by the Mazamas. No roads get within 8 miles of the mountain, which leads to a long approach, also providing great beauty and a variety of terrain. This is a very long climb, but not technically demanding. While there is glacier travel (hence the name, and the need for comfort with team arrest and crevasse rescue skills), the crevasses are relatively small and easy to navigate. 

The approach begins in a beautiful and serene old-growth forest. After passing the tree line, the route moves through high open meadows and grassy slopes, often covered in a beautiful variety of flowers. From there, the route crosses a volcanic bowl, filled with an amazing variety of rocks. This is a very cool place if you are into geology. We will either camp here, or make our way up to Glacier Cap.

On day two, we will switch to snow travel, moving up mild to moderate angle snow and will navigate crevasses, as we make our way to the summit. After capturing our summit photos and eating a few snacks, we will head back the way we came. On the way down, we may move our camp downhill to shorten the return trip to the cars on day three.

Other Information
Driving Distance from Portland 270 miles
Driving Time from Portland 5 hours
General Route Info Mt. Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest, Darrington Ranger District Office 360-436-1155 Summitpost https://www.summitpost.org/white-chuck-gerdine-cool-glaciers/166764
Expected Duration Car to car in two or more days
Interesting Features Glacier(s)
Relevant Books Selected Climbs in the Cascades, Vol.II by Nelson and Potterfield Cascade Alpine Guide: Stevens Pass to Rainy Pass by Fred Beckey Summit Guide to the Cascade Volcanoes by Jeff Smoot
Relevant Maps Glacier Peak, USGS 7 minute series Green Trails, #112 (Glacier Peak) Google map https://goo.gl/maps/5Qj7vVNuanK2 Some nice GPS tracks and topo maps by Karl Helser: karl-helser.com
Awards Qualified 16 Major NW Peaks
Useful Links