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As of January 1, 2024, all climbers above 9,500' in the Mt. Hood National Forest are required to carry a permit. As a Mazama member, if you are accepted onto this climb, your permit will be included with your registration—you will not need to arrange your own climbing permit.
This route follows a meandering path across the lower Eliot and Coe Glaciers on the northeast slope of Mt. Hood, providing a long route with few other people. Crevasse negotiation, self reliance and good routefinding skills are needed. This can be a long day, so some parties like to camp on the lower Eliot Glacier and make a 2 day climb out of it. Bring a few ice screws and pickets for the top few pitches. A second ice tool for the leader for pounding pickets is a good idea.
Activity Notes
The Sunshine Route, so named because it can get sunlight all day, is a standard north side route with a mixed reputation—it can be just a small step up from the southside in difficulty or a steep icy climb with significant exposure above a set of bergschrunds. We will be equipped for the difficult end, carrying ropes, pickets, and two tools (ice axe/ice tool)—as well as overnight gear and shovels. You should be confident in steep snow/ice climbing and in rope management. And all this while wearing a moderately heavy pack, since it will be a carryover.
I’ll adjust the date as needed and as possible to find a good weather window.
The default plan is to spread the joy over two days, dropping off cars at Timberline mid-morning, driving other cars to Tilly Jane Sno Park, and then ascending about 4200 ft. to a bivy site near Snow Dome (~8000 ft.). We’ll camp there and get some sleep before starting early and completing the route to the summit. From there we’ll descend the south side to Timberline and shuttle cars back to Tilly Jane as needed.
There is a chance we will skip the car shuttle and traverse around the east side from Timberline to the bivy site, but this option would require good conditions and recent beta on the route.
| Other Information | |
|---|---|
| Driving Distance from Portland | 90 miles |
| Driving Time from Portland | 2 hours |
| Expected Duration | Car to car in one day |
| Relevant Books | Oregon High by Jeff Thomas |
| Relevant Maps | USGS 7 1/2 minute series, Mt Hood South Green Trails Mt. Hood, and GeoGraphics Mt. Hood Google map https://goo.gl/maps/xpHx8xu6pAz |
| Awards Qualified | 16 Major NW Peaks, Guardian Peaks, Seven Oregon Cascades Peaks |
| Useful Links | GPS Track GPS Coordinates Map |
