Mt. Hood (Wy'east), Leuthold Couloir

Activity Notes

Note: This will be a second attempt for climbing the Wy'east route, for those that were able to make the first effort on March 1.

This is scheduled as a winter climb, which means there is a high likelihood that the climb will need to be rescheduled. We will look for stable snow conditions and a good weather window for the climb date. Consequently, we will communicate with prospective climb participants in advance of the climb, but will not  finalize the participant list until the climb date is finalized.

The Wy'East Route used to be a common Hood route, but is not frequently climbed today. Our climb will be a one-day car-to-car climb, departing from Timberline Lodge, ascending above the Palmer Snowfield, traversing the White River Glacier, then moving up the ridge to the Wy'East Face (approx 35-40 degree snow field). Once we reach the East Crater Rim, we will have dramatic views of Crater Rock and many South Side routes, as well as views to the East.  We will follow the rim, navigate around gendarmes, and move up a steep snow field (55-60 degree) to approach the summit. There may also be rime ice that we need to navigate. There is significant exposure and we may utilize protection if conditions warrant. The ridge will bring us up east of the summit.  Once we gain  the summit we will descend one of the standard south routes and begin the long slog back to the parking lot. It will be a long, tiring day, but it will also be a beautiful and dynamic route.

Based on weather, snow conditions and a democratic group decision we will climb Wy'east, Leuthold or DK3 (Flying Buttress).

Climbers need to be very fit, experienced on steep snow and ice with significant exposure, and confident in using two tools. It is recommended that applicants have a minimum of 4-5 Hood summits. If you have questions about the climb, feel free to contact Ryan or Darren.