Unicorn Peak, the highest point in the Tatoosh Range on the southern end of Mt. Rain-Here National Park, is a fine choice for an easy snow-rock climb. "A good early season ascent", says Beckey. If you try it in late season, most or all of the snow will be gone and the pitch or two of 35-40 degree snow will not be an issue - but the tedious scree will be exposed.

Along with a park entrance fee, all of the Tatoosh peaks offer spectacular views of Mt. Rainier - on clear days. If you are a backcountry skier or boarder, bring your toys if you try this climb in early season (before mid June) - the bowls west of the main peak are beautiful. Climb the summit pinnacle on the east side, which is around to the right (counterclockwise) from where you approach it from the south. This east side is mucho mas easier than the south side of the summit block.

A few small cams and stoppers are a good idea to protect the short rock pitch. Rock shoes are not needed. Short rap off the top. Great glissading in early season! "Tatoosh" means 'nourishing breast " in the local native American language.

Combine with nearby yet seldom climbed Boundary Peak for a doubleheader day of peak bagging, or for a long three peak day, add Stevens Peak at the far east end of the range. Check the Tatoosh Peaks for other options for Tatoosh climbing.

Activity Notes

This is a wonderful post BCEP climb where you will get to apply most of the skills you learned in BCEP and be a valuable member of a Mazama climb team.  The climb will include steep snow travel, 5th class climbing on rock, fixed line travel, as well as a rappel. Before the climb, participants should practice: putting on crampons, tying a figure 8 knot, tying an alpine butterfly, tying a prussik hitch, and setting up for rappel.

Unicorn Peak is the tallest in the Tatoosh Mountain Range and offers spectacular views of Mount Rainier. It's top is somewhat jagged which looks like a Unicorn's horn, hence the name. Climbing expertise and gear is required to summit Unicorn.

we will meet at the Snow Lakes Trailhead in Mt Rainier National Park the morning of the climb and ascend the 6971 ft peak car to car.  This climb is 4.8 miles car to car and has 2397 ft of elevation gain.  The trail starts out flat along Snow lake before ascending a couple steep gullies and ending with a moderate rock climb.  After tagging the summit we will descend the same way we went up.

Other Information
Driving Distance from Portland 150 miles
Driving Time from Portland 3 hours
General Route Info The Tatoosh is a prominent subrange near Mt. Rainier National Park’s southern boundary. It’s a pretty mini-mountain range, with the world’s best view of Mt. Rainier. Unicorn, the highest and most enjoyable Tatoosh peak, offers relatively “painless” (your leader is not into pain this time of year) mixed scrambling and rock climbing in a spectacular alpine area (imagine a half-size scale model of Mt. Jefferson, close to the road). See Beckey’s Cascade Alpine Guide for more detailed look at this area’s geologic and climbing history.
Expected Duration Car to car in one day
Interesting Features Lake(s), Mountain Views, Spectacular Views
Relevant Books Cascade Alpine Guide: Columbia River to Stevens Pass by Fred Beckey
Relevant Maps Maps: USGS 7 minute series, Tatoosh Lakes and Mt. Rainier East; Green Trails: Mt. Rainier East / Packwood Google map https://www.google.com/maps/@46.744344,-121.7047081,15.14z/data=!5m1!1e4?hl=en
Useful Links GPS Track New Window Icon Icon two stacked browser windows. GPS Coordinates New Window Icon Icon two stacked browser windows. Map New Window Icon Icon two stacked browser windows.
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