Scheduled outside of paid permit seasons, Nov. 1–March 31.

This route is open year round from the Marble Mountain Snow Park, so it's usually used for early season ascents. It's about 1,000 more vertical feet than Monitor ridge. Snow can be soft early season due to the low starting elevation, so bring skis or snowshoes in case. St. Helens is one of the lower and technically easier glaciated peaks in the Pacific NW, but still a strenuous climb as the starting elevation is relatively low. The peak is often underestimated; exposure and route finding challenges in low visibility can make this peak a serious as any in the Northwest. Watch out for the cornices on the summit crater!

This is a classic NW ski climb, with long open runs, minimal avy danger, and no crevasses. This can be a nice overnight trip as well - ski in, make camp, and hike up for some tele turns. Permits and Stuff: St Helens is one of the most heavily regulated peaks in the US. See the Gifford Pinchot National Forest web site for current permit regulations, SnoPark permit required between Nov 15 and April 30.

Activity Notes

Climb/Ski of Mt. St Helens.  Tentatively scheduled for Sunday but will be Saturday/Sunday (22/23rd) depending on weather.

Please make sure your profile indicates your backcountry ski experience.  All climbers are expected to have some avalanche related experience and have access to beacon/shovel/probe.  Some of this gear can be borrowed from the mazamas if you have the necessary previous training.

I will look to start making firmer plans, team selection and prospectus on Monday via email. We will be starting from Marble Mountain Sno Park at a time yet to be determined. Need a WA sno park pass to park but we may consolidate cars for pass reasons in cougar.

If you are newer to climbing or have questions, I encourage you to reach out to me beforehand to make sure this climb is a good fit for you! If registration is closed and you would like to join / have the necessary experience please also feel free to reach out!

Required Gear

  • Ice Axe / Crampons / Helmet
  • Flotation (Skis/Snowshoes)
  • Avy Gear (Beacon, Shovel, Probe)
Other Information
Driving Distance from Portland 80 miles
Driving Time from Portland 2 hours
Distance - Round Trip 12 miles
General Route Info summitpost: https://www.summitpost.org/mount-saint-helens/150360
Expected Duration Car to car in one day
Relevant Books Climbers Guide to the Cascade Volcanoes by Jeff Smoot Cascade Alpine Guide: Columbia River to Stevens Pass by Fred Beckey Selected Climbs in the Cascades by Nelson and Potterfield
Relevant Maps USGS 7 minute series, Mt. St. Helens, WA Green Trails, Mt St. Helens Google map https://goo.gl/maps/dudyw1gC3fn
Awards Qualified 16 Major NW Peaks, Guardian Peaks
Useful Links GPS Track New Window Icon Icon two stacked browser windows. GPS Coordinates New Window Icon Icon two stacked browser windows. Map New Window Icon Icon two stacked browser windows.
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