Scheduled outside of paid permit seasons, Nov. 1–March 31.

This route is open year round from the Marble Mountain Snow Park, so it's usually used for early season ascents. It's about 1,000 more vertical feet than Monitor ridge. Snow can be soft early season due to the low starting elevation, so bring skis or snowshoes in case. St. Helens is one of the lower and technically easier glaciated peaks in the Pacific NW, but still a strenuous climb as the starting elevation is relatively low. The peak is often underestimated; exposure and route finding challenges in low visibility can make this peak a serious as any in the Northwest. Watch out for the cornices on the summit crater!

This is a classic NW ski climb, with long open runs, minimal avy danger, and no crevasses. This can be a nice overnight trip as well - ski in, make camp, and hike up for some tele turns. Permits and Stuff: St Helens is one of the most heavily regulated peaks in the US. See the Gifford Pinchot National Forest web site for current permit regulations, SnoPark permit required between Nov 15 and April 30.

Activity Notes

Winter climb of Mt. St. Helens on Monday 1/20 starting from Marble Mountain Sno Park.  All climbers are expected to have some avalanche related experience (i.e. the ability to do a beacon search).  All climbers must wear an avalanche beacon and which can be borrowed from the Mazamas if they don't own one.  

I aim to maintain a moderate and consistent pace, and strive to keep the team moving efficiently.  Ideally, our pace will be equivalent in effort to Timberline to Silcox hut in under 1 hour with a climbing pack.  With a similar effort we should reach the MSH summit in ~ 5 hours.

Don’t hesitate to reach out with any questions or concern.

 

Required Gear:

  • Ice Axe / Crampons / Helmet
  • Snowshoes
  • Beacon, Shovel, Probe
Other Information
Driving Distance from Portland 80 miles
Driving Time from Portland 2 hours
Distance - Round Trip 12 miles
General Route Info summitpost: https://www.summitpost.org/mount-saint-helens/150360
Expected Duration Car to car in one day
Relevant Books Climbers Guide to the Cascade Volcanoes by Jeff Smoot Cascade Alpine Guide: Columbia River to Stevens Pass by Fred Beckey Selected Climbs in the Cascades by Nelson and Potterfield
Relevant Maps USGS 7 minute series, Mt. St. Helens, WA Green Trails, Mt St. Helens Google map https://goo.gl/maps/dudyw1gC3fn
Awards Qualified 16 Major NW Peaks, Guardian Peaks
Useful Links GPS Track New Window Icon Icon two stacked browser windows. GPS Coordinates New Window Icon Icon two stacked browser windows. Map New Window Icon Icon two stacked browser windows.
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