Glacier Peak, Cool Glacier

Activity Notes

Glacier Peak is the most remote peak we climb in the Cascade Range. No road penetrates within eight miles of the mountain and many approach hikes are more than 10 miles long. Although one of the highest peaks in the Cascades, looking from Puget Sound, Glacier Peak barely stands out from the lesser surrounding mountains. Glacier Peak is a heavily glaciated eroded volcano. The fall floods of 2003 destroyed many road and trail bridges in the Glacier Peak Wilderness, and many have not yet been re-built. At present, the Cool Glacier route, once considered long, has become the most accessible route.

Our itinerary will be: Day 1 meet at the trail head at 2:00p and hike to low camp at about 3,100 feet (approximately 5.5 miles and 1,100 feet elevation gain), Day 2 hike to high camp at about 7,000 feet (approximately 8 miles and 3,900 feet elevation gain), Day 3 climb and return to high camp (approximately 3 miles and 3,500 feet elevation gain to the summit), Day 4 return to low camp, and Day 5 hike out and return home. This route is exploratory for the leader.

Due to glaciation and crevasse risk, it is very important that climb members be fluent in crevasse rescue skills. Team members selected for the climb are expected to participate in a crevasse rescue review session on Wednesday, July 23 from 6:00p to 9:00p at the MMC. We will again briefly review these skills in camp on Day 1.

Please review the Mazamas Climber Etiquette Guide (https://mazamas.org/climberetiquette/) prior to applying for this climb.