As of January 1, 2024, all climbers above 9,500' in the Mt. Hood National Forest are required to carry a permit. As a Mazama member, if you are accepted onto this climb, your permit will be included with your registration—you will not need to arrange your own climbing permit.

This route leaves from Timberline and leaves the crowds. A more interesting approach and routefinding combined with steeper snow make this route a good one to try for the confident intermediate climber. This route is typically harder then Leuthold Couloir and easier than Sandy Headwall. A second ice tool for security and whacking pickets can be a good idea. In typical conditions, it's usually best to traverse from the top of the Palmer rather than from lower down, to lose as little altitude as possible when you cross the White River Glacier. Bring a few small cams, tri cams and/or pitons for protecting the rock on the traverse - if it's melted out, the rock is decent and may offer better pro than the snow. The last 2 pitches can be exposed 50+ degree snow.

Activity Notes

Note: This is scheduled as a winter climb, which means there is a high likelihood that the climb will need to be rescheduled. We will look for stable snow conditions and a good weather window for the climb date. Consequently, we will communicate with prospective climb participants in advance of the climb, but will not  finalize the participant list until the climb date is finalized.

The Wy'East Route used to be a common Hood route, but is not frequently climbed today. Our climb will be a one-day car-to-car climb, departing from Timberline Lodge, ascending above the Palmer Snowfield, traversing the White River Glacier, then moving up the ridge to the Wy'East Face (approx 35-40 degree snow field). Once we reach the East Crater Rim, we will have dramatic views of Crater Rock and many South Side routes, as well as views to the East.  We will follow the rim, navigate around gendarmes, and move up a steep snow field (55-60 degree) to approach the summit. There may also be rime ice that we need to navigate. There is significant exposure and we may utilize protection if conditions warrant. The ridge will bring us up east of the summit.  Once we gain  the summit we will descend one of the standard south routes and begin the long slog back to the parking lot. It will be a long, tiring day, but it will also be a beautiful and dynamic route.

Climbers need to be very fit, experienced on steep snow and ice with significant exposure, and confident in using two tools. It is recommended that applicants have a minimum of 4-5 Hood summits. If you have questions about the climb, feel free to contact Ryan or Darren.

Other Information
Driving Distance from Portland 65 miles
Driving Time from Portland 1 hours
Expected Duration Car to car in one day
Relevant Books Oregon High by Jeff Thomas
Relevant Maps USGS 7 1/2 minute series, Mt Hood South Green Trails Mt. Hood Geo-Graphics Mt. Hood Google map https://www.google.com/maps/@45.3724675,-121.7112291,14z/data=!5m1!1e4
Awards Qualified 16 Major NW Peaks, Guardian Peaks, Seven Oregon Cascades Peaks
Useful Links GPS Track New Window Icon Icon two stacked browser windows. GPS Coordinates New Window Icon Icon two stacked browser windows. Map New Window Icon Icon two stacked browser windows.
FIND AN UPCOMING ACTIVITY ON THE Calendar