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As of January 1, 2024, all climbers above 9,500' in the Mt. Hood National Forest are required to carry a permit. As a Mazama member, if you are accepted onto this climb, your permit will be included with your registration—you will not need to arrange your own climbing permit.
This route leaves from Timberline and leaves the crowds. A more interesting approach and routefinding combined with steeper snow make this route a good one to try for the confident intermediate climber. This route is typically harder then Leuthold Couloir and easier than Sandy Headwall. A second ice tool for security and whacking pickets can be a good idea. In typical conditions, it's usually best to traverse from the top of the Palmer rather than from lower down, to lose as little altitude as possible when you cross the White River Glacier. Bring a few small cams, tri cams and/or pitons for protecting the rock on the traverse - if it's melted out, the rock is decent and may offer better pro than the snow. The last 2 pitches can be exposed 50+ degree snow.
Activity Notes
Queerzamas climb: this climb is a queer affinity space climb, where all participants and leaders self-identify as part of the queer community. Please send me a quick email message to apply. NOTE: This is a last minute schedule climb, based on weather window. It may shift forward or back by a day or two, so flexible schedule is important. Mt. Hood (Wy'east), Wy'east route (grade II+, steep snow, glacier terrain) Team of 4-6. This route is more technically challenging than the south side routes of Mt. Hood-- probably not a good option for your first time up Hood. Minimum skills requirements are solid and practiced BCEP skills: basic snow skills including crampons/axe, quick belays, and rappel. During Queerzamas climbs, we are committed to cultivating a supportive and inclusive learning environment for all participants. We proudly affirm that this course is LGBTQ+ friendly and supportive, welcoming individuals of all gender identities and sexual orientations. We honor and respect each person's gender pronouns. Additionally, we strive to create a positive and supportive space that embraces diversity in all its forms. Regardless of race, age, gender, or life background, everyone is valued and respected here. It's our expectation that every applicant and accepted student will actively contribute to maintaining this safe and inclusive environment. Anticipate engaging in respectful dialogue and offering mutual support as we collectively strive for a positive and enriching alpine climbing experience.| Other Information | |
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| Driving Distance from Portland | 65 miles |
| Driving Time from Portland | 1 hours |
| Expected Duration | Car to car in one day |
| Relevant Books | Oregon High by Jeff Thomas |
| Relevant Maps | USGS 7 1/2 minute series, Mt Hood South Green Trails Mt. Hood Geo-Graphics Mt. Hood Google map https://www.google.com/maps/@45.3724675,-121.7112291,14z/data=!5m1!1e4 |
| Awards Qualified | 16 Major NW Peaks, Guardian Peaks, Seven Oregon Cascades Peaks |
| Useful Links | GPS Track GPS Coordinates Map |
