Explore our world-class mountaineering library, apply for one of our grants, and dig in to your member resources.
As of January 1, 2024, all climbers above 9,500' in the Mt. Hood National Forest are required to carry a permit. As a Mazama member, if you are accepted onto this climb, your permit will be included with your registration—you will not need to arrange your own climbing permit.
This route follows a meandering path across the lower Eliot and Coe Glaciers on the northeast slope of Mt. Hood, providing a long route with few other people. Crevasse negotiation, self reliance and good routefinding skills are needed. This can be a long day, so some parties like to camp on the lower Eliot Glacier and make a 2 day climb out of it. Bring a few ice screws and pickets for the top few pitches. A second ice tool for the leader for pounding pickets is a good idea.
Activity Notes
This will be a carryover from the north side (tilly jane) thru sunshine, up and over the summit back to the south side and ski down to government camp, where we will have a car shuttle. Proficiency with a second tool is required. Please update your profile with the relevant experience as requested below: 1) Participants should know how to use a beacon, shovel and a probe 2) Participants should be in excellent physical shape (1.5 hours or faster to the top of palmer with a 25 lb or heavier pack) 3) Backcountry skiing experience 4) Should have BCEP or higher training. If you cant understand the gear list, you shouldn't be on this climb 5) Should be adept at skiing black diamonds Dates are TBD and weather dependent. The date you see is a placeholder. As of January 1, 2024, all climbers above 9,500' in the Mt. Hood National Forest are required to carry a permit. As a Mazama member, if you are accepted onto this climb, your permit will be included with your registration?you will not need to arrange your own climbing permit. Please review our refund policy carefully before registering for any activity.| Other Information | |
|---|---|
| Driving Distance from Portland | 90 miles |
| Driving Time from Portland | 2 hours |
| Expected Duration | Car to car in one day |
| Relevant Books | Oregon High by Jeff Thomas |
| Relevant Maps | USGS 7 1/2 minute series, Mt Hood South Green Trails Mt. Hood, and GeoGraphics Mt. Hood Google map https://goo.gl/maps/xpHx8xu6pAz |
| Awards Qualified | 16 Major NW Peaks, Guardian Peaks, Seven Oregon Cascades Peaks |
| Useful Links | GPS Track GPS Coordinates Map |
