Mazamas — For the Love of Mountains
There is a tiny remnant glacier on this otherwise all-rock peak, which is one of the few one day alpine rock routes in Oregon. It's a good beginner climb for those who want to see if they like alpine rock routes. Great exposure on the famous "Crawl". Two ropes can be handy for fixing the Crawl and leading the summit block. Bring a few long pieces of webbing to sling rocks for the fixed line anchors, and a selection of large stoppers for rock pro. Leave some water stashed at the climbers trail-PCT junction. You'll want to get an early start on weekends - it can be a long day if the route is busy.
Activity Notes
This will be a one day, car to car climb of 3FJ. We will be leaving early, so I recommend planning to get up early for a drive from PDX, or camping near the trailhead.
This route will require rock climbing up to low 5th class, rappelling, fixed line travel, and have a fair amount of exposure. I recommend climbers being comfortable climbing 5.9 at Movement, or equivalent. It would be a good idea to review fixed line travel and rappelling technique before this climb.
Anyone going on the climb must be in good condition. Climbers not able to keep pace with the group may be turned back at the leader’s discretion.
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| Other Information | |
|---|---|
| Driving Distance from Portland | 130 miles |
| Driving Time from Portland | 2 hours |
| General Route Info | summitpost https://www.summitpost.org/three-fingered-jack/150461 mountain forecast https://www.mountain-forecast.com/peaks/Three-Fingered-Jack/forecasts/2390 erics base camp trip report and photos http://ericsbasecamp.net/trips/3FingeredJack/3FingeredJack.htm |
| Expected Duration | Car to car in one day |
| Relevant Books | Oregon High by Jeff Thomas |
| Relevant Maps | USGS 7 minute series, Three Fingered Jack, and USFS Mt. Jefferson Wilderness map Google map https://goo.gl/maps/WoPBF24taUD2 |
| Awards Qualified | 16 Major NW Peaks, Seven Oregon Cascades Peaks |
| Useful Links | GPS Track GPS Coordinates Map |
