Mazamas — For the Love of Mountains
Peregrine Closure: Feb 1–July 15. Please respect this closure and do not climb during this time.
Airy views of the Columbia gorge, good rock, and superb climbing make this route a classic and THE most popular route at Beacon Rock. Almost every climbable weekend will see ascents.
Finding the start of this route can be a challenge. Go down the climbers trail on the East side of Beacon. After turning the corner watch for a rise in terrain. Just past the rise the route starts in a right angling corner. (Read full description on Mountain Project)
Activity Notes
The weather on Hubris isn't cooperating so we are changing locations and dates to the SE Corner of Beacon Rock. It is 7 pitches of up to 5.7 climbing with a walk off down the mostly paved trail to the top. We would meet in the east parking lot at Beacon Rock State Park at 7 AM, gear up, hike the short distance to the climb, and then climb!
Archived Info from Hubris Below:
This is a great 6 pitch multi-pitch climb with high quality rock. We need at least two ICS grads with confident lead belaying and multipitch efficiency skills. We can also take up to two recent BCEP grads with strong climbing skills.
When you apply, you must also fill out a short survey with your experience so that I can correctly assemble a team with the above skills. You should be automatically directed to the survey when you apply.
The drive down from Portland is over 6 hours and high density carpooling (3-4 people per car) is a must due to limited parking at the campsite. We will camp at Castle Crags State Park for Friday and Saturday night. Camp cost is $12 per person payable to the climb leader.
What to Expect After Applying: please apply by June 16th for initial consideration. After June 16th, I will select the climb team and alternates and notify everyone via email of their status by the end of June. My goal in selecting a climb team is to create a well balanced group with a diverse range of skills, backgrounds, and experiences.
| Other Information | |
|---|---|
| Driving Distance from Portland | 40 miles |
| Driving Time from Portland | 1 hours |
| General Route Info | From Mountain Project: Pitch 1: 5.6 Climb up the right leaning corner and then up a crack to a nice ledge. Be careful pulling onto the ledge as there may be loose rocks. Belay from a bolted anchor Pitch 2: 5.2 Traverse down a few feet and then straight right for a pitch. Belay at bolted anchors. Pro is sparse but the climbing is easy. Most people link pitch one and two. P3: Pull the steep mantle immediately up and left of the anchor and continue up the ramp above (or the right-leaning, right-facing dihedral just left of the ramp) until you have pulled a couple of vertical moves past some old pins. Make a short traverse to your right, around the corner, to a hand crack, and then head straight up for a short distance to the large belay ledge with tree. 30m. P4: Ascend the obvious left-leaning, right-facing dihedral/ramp up and left from the belay. Build a trad anchor shortly after you gain the narrow dirty ledge (the bolted anchor that the route description mentions is the top of "Jill's Thrill", and is much further to the left and around a corner along this ledge. I can't imagine why anyone would want to belay from here if continuing to the top). 40m. P5: Walk left along the dirty ledge for a very short distance then turn right up a wide, shallow gully that is littered with dirt and loose rock. The short offwidth is at the top, and slightly to the right, of this gully. I personally prefer to build an anchor here at the top of the offwidth. < 30m. P6: Head up and right along the low-angle ramp, and clip the ancient bolt off to your left at the top (for the rope) before walking right along a ledge a short distance and around a bit of a corner. Go straight up the face above you and build an anchor on the large ledge at the top. aprox 40m. P7: Go up and left from the ledge, taking the line of least resistance up the low-angle ridge/spine of clean rock. Belay from a large ledge just before going into the trees. aprox 30m. Unrope and walk up the trail through the trees to the hikers trail. Gear: A regular rack of nuts and cams up to 3" |
| Expected Duration | Car to car in one day |
| Interesting Features | Basalt Columns, Spectacular Views |
