As of January 1, 2024, all climbers above 9,500' in the Mt. Hood National Forest are required to carry a permit. As a Mazama member, if you are accepted onto this climb, your permit will be included with your registration—you will not need to arrange your own climbing permit.

There are several ways to climb Reid Glacier Headwall. The longest and most interesting way follows two narrow gullies and ends at Queens Chair. The average angle of this line is 40 to 45 degrees, but be ready for 60 degree plus ices bulges. Bring a few ice screws. Two ice tools are a good ices.

Other Information
Driving Distance from Portland 65 miles
Driving Time from Portland 1 hours
Expected Duration Car to car in one day
Interesting Features Spectacular Views
Relevant Books Oregon High by Jeff Thomas
Relevant Maps USGS 7 1/2 minute series, Mt Hood South, and Green Trails Mt. Hood, and GeoGraphics Mt. Hood < href="" title="On the Mazama Climbing and Hiking map page ">On the Mazama Climbing and Hiking map page < href=",-121.798955&sspn=0.018707,0.04549&t=p&ie=UTF8&ll=45.373825,-121.695642&spn=0.01851,0.045233&z=15&iwloc=addr" title="Google maps">Google maps
Awards Qualified 16 Major NW Peaks, Guardian Peaks, Seven Oregon Cascades Peaks