This classic route has it all - a tough approach, glacier crossing, a stupendous bivy spot high on the North Ridge, and a whole day of 4th and 5th class pitches of some of the best quality rock in the Cascades. Bring guidebook photocopies for both the climb and descent. All gear is carried over, so pack light - might want to leave the bag at home, and bring crampons that work with light approach shoes. Forest fires are common in this area in the summer - call the USFS before you leave town to be sure the trails are open.

Other Information
Driving Distance from Portland 275 miles
Driving Time from Portland 5 hours
Expected Duration Car to car in two or more days
Relevant Books Cascade Alpine Guide: Columbia River to Stevens Pass by Fred Beckey (use the new third edition) Selected Climbs in the Cascades by Nelson and Potterfield
Relevant Maps USGS 7 minute series, Mt. Stuart, WA, and Green Trails: Mt. Stuart, WA No 209 <href="http: "="" adventure="" c463="" starts-here="" title="On the Mazama Climbing and Hiking map page """ your="">On the Mazama Climbing and Hiking map page <href="http:"" maps?f="q&source=s_q&hl=en&geocode=&q=mount+stuart+98826&sll=47.481017,-120.992432&sspn=0.542021,1.455688&ie=UTF8&ll=47.47246,-120.899434&spn=0.016941,0.04549&t=p&z=15"" title="Google map">Google map</href="http:></href="http:>
Awards Qualified 16 Major NW Peaks