Disappointment Peak, Irene's Arete

Named for the Tetons legend Irene Beardsley, Irene's was first climbed in 1957, by Beardsley and John Dietschy. To get there, start at Lupine Meadows, following signs to Garnet Canyon and then the Upper Saddle, reaching the Petzoldt Caves after approximately five miles. Look on the south-facing slope for a faint trail that doubles back over the Southwest Couloir and into a treed area, and then wind your way to a cliff band and a prominent pedestal. To begin the 5.7 first pitch, either step across onto the pedestal or launch rightward up and over the crest, climbing discontinuous cracks to a small alcove where the variations reunite.The second and third pitches go at 5.7 to 5.9 (depending on the variation) and continue along the arÃte's right side. Midway through the third pitch, the exposure sinks in as you work the arÃte's narrow profile. On P4, get ready for the original, 5.8 crux, a strenuous move left through a thin crack, after which you trend back right through black rock and up a flaring 5.7 groove. Stay left of the crest for the fifth pitch, to an obvious notch, from which either a 5.5 romp, a slanting 5.8 fist crack, or a short section of old-school 5.9+ (an easily protected undercling traverse) top you out.