Mazamas — For the Love of Mountains
As of January 1, 2024, all climbers above 9,500' in the Mt. Hood National Forest are required to carry a permit. As a Mazama member, if you are accepted onto this climb, your permit will be included with your registration—you will not need to arrange your own climbing permit.
Devils Kitchen Headwall should only be undertaken when it is covered by ice and snow. It is relatively straightforward under winter conditions, the maximum angle being somewhere between 55 and 60 degrees. Start from the Hogback and traverse right about Devils Kitchen. Climb the headwall using one of several gullies. A second ice tool is recommended. From the top of the headwall, follow the upper 3 pitches of the Wy'east route to the summit.
Activity Notes
Some important points to read:
1) This is NOT a beginner Mt Hood climb. Even if you have climbed the mountain before, but only in the late spring/summer, you might not have the necessary experience.
2) You need to be proficient with two tools and crampons, preferably have taken ASI/SSI and/or time in Ouray or Hyalite spent climbing water ice
3) We might encounter low angle ice which might not be protected
4) You should be self sufficient in cold temperatures
5) The date is weather dependent and only a place holder. I will contact climbers the week of the climb.
6) If you have climbed with me, and are not certain, please ask me if you are a good fit for this climb
7) You should have familiarity with the usage of a beacon, shovel and probe
| Other Information | |
|---|---|
| Driving Distance from Portland | 65 miles |
| Driving Time from Portland | 1 hours |
| General Route Info | A challenging climb up one of the Devil's Kitchen gully routes. |
| Expected Duration | Car to car in one day |
| Relevant Books | Oregon High by Jeff Thomas |
| Relevant Maps | USGS 7 1/2 minute series, Mt Hood South, Green Trails Mt. Hood, GeoGraphics Mt. Hood On the Mazama<href="http: "="" adventure="" c463="" starts-here="" title="Climbing and Hiking map page" www.mazamas.org="" your="">Climbing and Hiking map page <href="http: maps.google.com="" maps?f="q&source=s_q&hl=en&geocode=&q=mt+hood&sll=44.674285,-121.798955&sspn=0.018707,0.04549&t=p&ie=UTF8&ll=45.373825,-121.695642&spn=0.01851,0.045233&z=15&iwloc=addr"" title="Google maps">Google maps</href="http:></href="http:> |
| Awards Qualified | 16 Major NW Peaks, Guardian Peaks, Seven Oregon Cascades Peaks |
