Mazamas — For the Love of Mountains
Activity Notes
https://mazamas.org/activity/61/
This is one of the harder and more committing routes on Mt. Hood - you're a long way from other climbers and outside help. While a one day round trip from Timberline is possible for the fit team (10-12 hours). A second ice tool and pickets are mandatory, and bring a few ice screws. Crossing lower Yocum Ridge can be a bit tricky - in some spots 50 degree traversing on hard snow or alpine ice. The entry to the headwall can easily be a WI3 climb. Once on the headwall, expect about 2,000 unrelenting feet of 50-55 degree snow / alpine ice - a good calf workout!. Running belays or unroped climbing can be the way to go on this route; Conditions might require more leading and belaying which we will judge as we go.
