This is one of the harder and more committing routes on Mt. Hood - you're a long way from other climbers and outside help. While a one day round trip from Timberline is possible for the fit team (10-12 hours), camping at Illumination Saddle the night before will reward you with great views and an early and well rested start. Bring the backcountry skis for a great ski down after breaking camp. A second ice tool and pickets are mandatory, and bring a few ice screws. Crossing lower Yocum Ridge can be a bit tricky - in some spots 50 degree traversing on hard snow or alpine ice. Once on the headwall, expect about 2,000 unrelenting feet of 50-55 degree snow / alpine ice - a good calf workout!. Running belays or unroped climbing is the way to go on this route.
|Driving Distance from Portland||65 miles|
|Driving Time from Portland||1 hours|
|Expected Duration||Car to car in one day|
|Relevant Books||Oregon High by Jeff Thomas|
|Relevant Maps||USGS 7 1/2 minute series, Mt Hood South, Green Trails Mt. Hood, Geo Graphics Mt. Hood <href="http: "="" adventure="" c463="" starts-here="" title="On the Mazama Climbing and Hiking map page " www.mazamas.org="" your="">On the Mazama Climbing and Hiking map page <href="http: maps.google.com="" maps?f="q&source=s_q&hl=en&geocode=&q=mt+hood&sll=44.674285,-121.798955&sspn=0.018707,0.04549&t=p&ie=UTF8&ll=45.373825,-121.695642&spn=0.01851,0.045233&z=15&iwloc=addr"" title="Google maps">Google maps</href="http:></href="http:>|
|Awards Qualified||16 Major NW Peaks, Guardian Peaks, Seven Oregon Cascades Peaks|