Follow the Red Lake Trail 5 miles to Red Lake-camp sites available. From the lake, hike NW to the Prater-Split saddle (last 100' is 3rd class rubble and talus. From the saddle, follow the north ridge to the summit. permit is required- reserve 6 months before or take your chances with a walk in on the day of your climb.

Other Information
Driving Distance from Portland 750 miles
Driving Time from Portland 13 hours
Expected Duration Car to car in two or more days
Relevant Books Climbing California's Fourteenersby Porcella and Burns
Relevant Maps USGS Split Mountain