Mazamas — For the Love of Mountains
As of January 1, 2024, all climbers above 9,500' in the Mt. Hood National Forest are required to carry a permit. As a Mazama member, if you are accepted onto this climb, your permit will be included with your registration—you will not need to arrange your own climbing permit.
There are several ways to climb Reid Glacier Headwall. The longest and most interesting way follows two narrow gullies and ends at Queens Chair. The average angle of this line is 40 to 45 degrees, but be ready for 60 degree plus ices bulges. Bring a few ice screws. Two ice tools are a good ices.
Activity Notes
Some important points to read:
1) This is NOT a beginner Mt Hood climb. Even if you have climbed the mountain before, but only in the late spring/summer, you might not have the necessary experience.
2) You need to be proficient with two tools and crampons, preferably have taken ASI/SSI and/or time in Ouray or Hyalite spent climbing water ice
3) We might encounter low angle ice which might not be protected
4) You should be self sufficient in cold temperatures
5) The date is weather dependent and only a place holder. I will contact climbers the week of the climb.
6) If you have climbed with me, and are not certain, please ask me over email if you are a good fit for this climb
7) You should have familiarity with the usage of a beacon, shovel and probe
| Other Information | |
|---|---|
| Driving Distance from Portland | 65 miles |
| Driving Time from Portland | 1 hours |
| Expected Duration | Car to car in one day |
| Interesting Features | Spectacular Views |
| Relevant Books | Oregon High by Jeff Thomas |
| Relevant Maps | USGS 7 1/2 minute series, Mt Hood South, and Green Trails Mt. Hood, and GeoGraphics Mt. Hood < href="http://www.mazamas.org/your/adventure/starts-here/C463/" title="On the Mazama Climbing and Hiking map page ">On the Mazama Climbing and Hiking map page < href="http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&source=s_q&hl=en&geocode=&q=mt+hood&sll=44.674285,-121.798955&sspn=0.018707,0.04549&t=p&ie=UTF8&ll=45.373825,-121.695642&spn=0.01851,0.045233&z=15&iwloc=addr" title="Google maps">Google maps |
| Awards Qualified | 16 Major NW Peaks, Guardian Peaks, Seven Oregon Cascades Peaks |
