Although not the highest of the Tatoosh peaks, Pinnacle's central position and attractive form have made it the most popular ascent in the park. When the Mazamas climbed it on July 26, 1897, they dubbed it the "Matterhorn of the Cascades. From Fred Beckey's Cascade Alpine Guide, Volume I

The standard round up is an easy fourth class pitch of a south facing gully. This route takes the more challenging east face. Expect about three pitches of 5th class rock, the second pitch being 5.6.

Suggested gear: 4-5 medium to small nuts, 2-3 cams to 2.5 inches, 60m rope

Activity Notes

Note: The team for this climb has been selected.  Please apply only if you wish to be added to the waitlist.

This will be a two peak traverse of The Castle, Pinnacle Peak (via the East Ridge).  We will meet in camp at Cougar Rock by 8 PM the night before (Friday, August 19th) for a pre-climb meeting.  On the morning of the climb, we will depart camp at 6:15 AM to drive to the trailhead as a group.

We will depart the Reflection Lake trailhead and hike up the trail to the saddle between Pinnacle Peak and Plummer Peak.  From the saddle, we will traverse behind Pinnacle Peak to The Castle.  We will ascent The Castle on top rope (low 5th class), then rappel off The Castle and retrace our steps to the base of the East Ridge of Pinnacle.  We will ascent the two pitch technical ascent of the East Ridge (up to 5.6) using top rope and fixed line and then scramble to the summit of Pinnacle Peak.  From there we will rappel down the southwest gully in the direction of Plummer. <br>  

Total distance is ~4.3 miles with an elevation gain of ~2,500 ft.  Even though the distance is relatively short, expect this to be a full day climb due to the amount of technical, roped climbing involved.

Expect to use top rope climbing skills up to 5.6, rappelling, and fixed line travel.  This climb is suitable for recent BCEP grads who enjoy rock climbing and are proficient in the above skills.  Climbers will also have the option to belay from above off the anchor with supervision.

Additional Costs: In addition to the climb fee, camping costs an additional $10 per person and vehicle entry into Mount Rainier National Park is $30 per car.  

Other Considerations:  We can only have 4 cars at the camp site.  This means we will have to carpool for this trip with 2-3 people per car.  Please keep this in mind and consider COVID risk during carpooling when deciding to apply.

What to Expect After Applying: please apply by July 18th for initial consideration.  After July 18th, I will select the climb team and alternates and notify everyone via email of their status by July 25th.  My goal in selecting a climb team is to create a well balanced group with a diverse range of skills, backgrounds, and experiences.

Financial Aid:  please see this page for information about the Mazamas' financial aid program.

Other Information
Driving Distance from Portland 160 miles
Driving Time from Portland 3 hours
General Route Info summitpost: https://www.summitpost.org/east-ridge/156348
Expected Duration Car to car in one day
Interesting Features Spectacular Views
Relevant Books Cascade Alpine Guide: Columbia River to Stevens Pass by Fred Beckey 75 Scrambles in Washington by Peggy Goldman
Relevant Maps USGS 7 minute series, Tatoosh Lakes and Mt. Rainier East; Green Trails: Mt Rainier East / Packwood <href="http: "="" adventure="" c463="" starts-here="" title="On the Mazama Climbing and Hiking map page " www.mazamas.org="" your="">On the Mazama Climbing and Hiking map page <href="http: maps.google.com="" maps?f="q&source=s_q&hl=en&geocode=&q=plummer+Peak+WA&sll=48.98385,-120.856519&sspn=0.016532,0.04549&ie=UTF8&ll=46.754093,-121.737099&spn=0.017259,0.04549&t=p&z=15"" title="Google map">Google map</href="http:></href="http:>
Useful Links