The Kautz Glacier route is a popular choice for intermediate climbers, offering more technical challenges and a LOT fewer people then the popular Emmons and DC routes.

Activity Notes

Camp at camp hazard. Plan is to descend the kautz, but that might change depending on conditions.

Day 1: Drive, walk/skin up to camp hazard

Day 2: Summit, and descend to camp. This option may change to carryover depending on conditions of the headwall. Pack up and drive back

Day 3: Reserve

For applicants, you must have experience in steep snow and ice. Experience in being able to follow and rack screws and pickets is a plus. Previous experience in having climbed to 14k feet is a definite advantage. 

 

Other Information
Driving Distance from Portland 150 miles
Driving Time from Portland 3 hours
Expected Duration Car to car in two or more days
Relevant Books Selected Climbs in the Cascades Volume 2 by Nelson and Potterfield Cascade Alpine Guide, Volume 1 by Fred Beckey
Relevant Maps USGS 7 minute series, Mt. Rainier East and West <href="http: "="" adventure="" c463="" starts-here="" title="On the Mazama Climbing and Hiking map page " www.mazamas.org="" your="">On the Mazama Climbing and Hiking map page <href="http: maps.google.com="" maps?f="q&source=s_q&hl=en&geocode=&q=Mt.+Rainier&sll=37.0625,-95.677068&sspn=40.732051,93.164063&ie=UTF8&ll=46.849802,-121.757483&spn=0.017229,0.04549&t=p&z=15&iwloc=A"" title="Google map">Google map</href="http:></href="http:>
Awards Qualified 16 Major NW Peaks
Useful Links GPS Track New Window Icon Icon two stacked browser windows. GPS Coordinates New Window Icon Icon two stacked browser windows. Map New Window Icon Icon two stacked browser windows.
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