As of January 1, 2024, all climbers above 9,500' in the Mt. Hood National Forest are required to carry a permit. As a Mazama member, if you are accepted onto this climb, your permit will be included with your registration—you will not need to arrange your own climbing permit.

Devils Kitchen Headwall should only be undertaken when it is covered by ice and snow. It is relatively straightforward under winter conditions, the maximum angle being somewhere between 55 and 60 degrees. Start from the Hogback and traverse right about Devils Kitchen. Climb the headwall using one of several gullies. A second ice tool is recommended. From the top of the headwall, follow the upper 3 pitches of the Wy'east route to the summit.

Activity Notes

This climb is for DKHW (v1 in the mullee book). Requirements for applying:

1) Have climbed (TR'ed) upto WI3 and be comfortable at that level, no hangs

2) Have climbed Mt Hood before and familiar with old chute/pearly gates descent routes

3) Be in decent shape to spend a night and more hours on the mountain

Send me an email with your recent training and experience before applying. All applications without an email will not be considered.

Also, the date posted for the climb is probably NOT the date on which it will go. All winter climbs are dependent on the weather and avalanche conditions. The notice for the climb might be short, and I would encourage you to look up the route, conditions on cascade climbers and read trip reports online from blogs beforehand to see if you want to join. 

 

====

 

Please ignore the gearlist below.  I will send a different gear list to climbers.

Other Information
Driving Distance from Portland 65 miles
Driving Time from Portland 1 hours
General Route Info A challenging climb up one of the Devil's Kitchen gully routes.
Expected Duration Car to car in one day
Relevant Books Oregon High by Jeff Thomas
Relevant Maps USGS 7 1/2 minute series, Mt Hood South, Green Trails Mt. Hood, GeoGraphics Mt. Hood On the Mazama<href="http: "="" adventure="" c463="" starts-here="" title="Climbing and Hiking map page" www.mazamas.org="" your="">Climbing and Hiking map page <href="http: maps.google.com="" maps?f="q&source=s_q&hl=en&geocode=&q=mt+hood&sll=44.674285,-121.798955&sspn=0.018707,0.04549&t=p&ie=UTF8&ll=45.373825,-121.695642&spn=0.01851,0.045233&z=15&iwloc=addr"" title="Google maps">Google maps</href="http:></href="http:>
Awards Qualified 16 Major NW Peaks, Guardian Peaks, Seven Oregon Cascades Peaks
FIND AN UPCOMING ACTIVITY ON THE Calendar