Most of the elevation is gained upon reaching the base of Eldorado Peak which is the starting point for this high glacial traverse. Traversing eastward past an array of crevasses, moats, and rock spires, the route crosses a series of glaciers that form this small ice cap. The place is remote, really the middle of nowhere. Numerous summits and geographic features await exploration along the way to the Austera Towers, of which Austera Peak is the highest and most accessible. This climb is more of a glacier excursion than a traditional ascent, but it is a grand journey across expansive sheets of ice that for the Inspiration, Klawatti, and McAllister Glaciers and is an experience that is unique in the Cascades.

Activity Notes

This remote and thus rarely climbed peak in the North Cascades National Park is a glacier tour unlike most other peaks in the Cascades. Hidden behind the better known peaks accessible from Cascade River Road (Eldorado, Forbidden and Sahale) this climb offers a traverse across contiguous glaciers in a top-of-the-world sort of way. With its strenuous approach, route-finding challenges and stunning setting, this is a unique climbing experience..

The summit itself is unremarkable, but getting their is why we go. If you're ready for a big effort to get to a spot few go to, please apply for this climb.

Other Information
Driving Distance from Portland 310 miles
Driving Time from Portland 7 hours
Expected Duration Car to car in two or more days
Relevant Books Selected Climbs in the Cascades, Volume INelson & Potterfield
Relevant Maps Google map
FIND AN UPCOMING ACTIVITY ON THE Calendar