Mazamas — For the Love of Mountains
Starting with May 1 climbs, Climb Registration Fee includes Mt. St. Helens Permit Fee ($22/person).
This route is open year round from the Marble Mountain Snow Park, so it's usually used for early season ascents. It's about 1,000 more vertical feet than Monitor ridge. Snow can be soft early season due to the low starting elevation, so bring skis or snowshoes in case. St. Helens is one of the lower and technically easier glaciated peaks in the Pacific NW, but still a strenuous climb as the starting elevation is relatively low. The peak is often underestimated; exposure and route finding challenges in low visibility can make this peak a serious as any in the Northwest. Watch out for the cornices on the summit crater!
This is a classic NW ski climb, with long open runs, minimal avy danger, and no crevasses. This can be a nice overnight trip as well - ski in, make camp, and hike up for some tele turns. Permits and Stuff: St Helens is one of the most heavily regulated peaks in the US. See the Gifford Pinchot National Forest web site for current permit regulations, SnoPark permit required between Nov 15 and April 30.
Activity Notes
St Helens is a good climb if the conditions are right. There is no point climbing if there is no visibility at the summit or if it is raining or very windy. Therefore, although we have a fixed date on the calendar, it might be necessary to change it to a later one. If I change the date, you have the option to reschedule, or cancel with a full refund. In addition to the climb fee, you also need a climbing permit from the RECREATION.GOV website ($21). This is now included in the Mazama climb fee, so I will purchase them for the group. Before May 14 and on weekdays there are 300 spots open, and they are usually still available a day or in advance. I don't buy the permits until I think the weather will be OK of the climb day. Meet on the climb day at the Marble Mountain snow park at 6 AM. This is where the Swift creek trailhead starts. You need a NW forest pass to park here. Plan to be on the trail by 630AM. If we are lucky, the trail may be snow free for the first mile or two. Depending on conditions, the climb up takes 4-7 hours and the descent about 3. This should get us back to the cars by 5PM. The drive from Portland takes around 90 minutes (check your projected drive time with Google maps based on where you live), and no traffic issues at that hour. Gear: There is a list, but add whatever else you normally carry. As it is long day, you need 2-3 liters of water. Note that on descent we will be glissading, which can be quite wet. I usually bring a large trash bag to sit on to protect the bottom of my rain pants. Extra socks can be nice to have, as snow tend to get in the boots. Find Activity Financial Aid Info here: https://mazamas.org/financialaid/| Other Information | |
|---|---|
| Driving Distance from Portland | 80 miles |
| Driving Time from Portland | 2 hours |
| Distance - Round Trip | 12 miles |
| General Route Info | summitpost: https://www.summitpost.org/mount-saint-helens/150360 |
| Expected Duration | Car to car in one day |
| Relevant Books | Climbers Guide to the Cascade Volcanoes by Jeff Smoot Cascade Alpine Guide: Columbia River to Stevens Pass by Fred Beckey Selected Climbs in the Cascades by Nelson and Potterfield |
| Relevant Maps | USGS 7 minute series, Mt. St. Helens, WA Green Trails, Mt St. Helens Google map https://goo.gl/maps/dudyw1gC3fn |
| Awards Qualified | 16 Major NW Peaks, Guardian Peaks |
| Useful Links | GPS Track GPS Coordinates Map |
