Mazamas — For the Love of Mountains
As of January 1, 2024, all climbers above 9,500' in the Mt. Hood National Forest are required to carry a permit. As a Mazama member, if you are accepted onto this climb, your permit will be included with your registration—you will not need to arrange your own climbing permit.
This route follows a meandering path across the lower Eliot and Coe Glaciers on the northeast slope of Mt. Hood, providing a long route with few other people. Crevasse negotiation, self reliance and good routefinding skills are needed. This can be a long day, so some parties like to camp on the lower Eliot Glacier and make a 2 day climb out of it. Bring a few ice screws and pickets for the top few pitches. A second ice tool for the leader for pounding pickets is a good idea.
Activity Notes
This climb will be an up-and-over climb with a car shuttle, starting at the Tilly Jane SnoPark, ascending to bivy at about 8,000' on the Eliot Glacier. Summit day will continue up the Eliot Glacier, where we will choose the best route past the two bergshrunds to reach the Queen's Chair.
We will descend the south side to Timberline Lodge, where we will have stashed some of vehicles on the way up to the mountain.
Please note the route crosses many crevasses, and preference will be given to applicants with ICS-level crevasse rescue training.
| Other Information | |
|---|---|
| Driving Distance from Portland | 90 miles |
| Driving Time from Portland | 2 hours |
| Expected Duration | Car to car in one day |
| Relevant Books | Oregon High by Jeff Thomas |
| Relevant Maps | USGS 7 1/2 minute series, Mt Hood South Green Trails Mt. Hood, and GeoGraphics Mt. Hood Google map https://goo.gl/maps/xpHx8xu6pAz |
| Awards Qualified | 16 Major NW Peaks, Guardian Peaks, Seven Oregon Cascades Peaks |
| Useful Links | GPS Track GPS Coordinates Map |
