Mazamas — For the Love of Mountains
Close to the freeway and with an easy approach, this peak gets a lot of attention - by 1991, there were 14,000 ascents! Three easy 5th class pitches gets you to the top. Weekends can be crowded with newbies, so start early or go late to avoid the crowds.
This face is about 330 ft high, above "Pineapple Pass". The steps on this narrow, solid face are steep, interrupted by good belay ledges with stunted evergreens. The route takes small gear to 2 inches, and an ice axe may be needed in early season. This is a classic climb of this area. Its historic names have included Denny Horn and Denny Tooth. The Tooth is formed of Tertiary andesite breccia thermally metamorphosed by the Snoqualmie batholith. (Wow!) See Beckey’s Cascade Alpine Guide for a more detailed look at this area’s geologic and climbing history.
Activity Notes
This route is roughly four pitches of 5.5/5.6 climbing including some scramble section. Grade II.
This is a provisional climb for me (Tracie). It's intended to be a small group with two teams of two on the rock pitches moving independently, but close enough to assist each other if needed. Teams can swap leads depending on comfort levels and conditions. This can be a popular route and keeping ourselves fast and light will be important to stay safe and manage our day efficiently.
Although we'll be climbing car-to-car, due to the driving distance from Portland and potential for the route to be busy we'll camp at the trailhead Friday evening, and drive home Saturday evening (hopefully having time to stop for pizza in Alpental).
Preference for graduates of Intermediate Climbing School and Advanced Rock classes. Must have prior experience cleaning trad gear and lead belaying, at minimum.
If you have any questions, feel free to contact me, or the assistant (Rebecca Madore!). Will make team selection by July 15, at the latest.
| Other Information | |
|---|---|
| Driving Distance from Portland | 200 miles |
| Driving Time from Portland | 4 hours |
| General Route Info | summitpost https://www.summitpost.org/the-tooth/150784 mountain forecast https://www.mountain-forecast.com/peaks/The-Tooth/forecasts/1708 Be prepared for extremely S L O W parties ahead of you. Try this climb on a weekday if possible. Get an early start. Rockfall from the last pitch is common, so be sure to wear your helmet at the base of the route. Rack: one rope, five or six medium to large stoppers, five or six medium to large cams (orange / red / black Metolius, Camalot 1 2 3 should do it.) It's about a two-hour hike from the car to the base of the route. Ice ax and crampons might be needed in early-season, but typically not after June. John Godino | February 2009 2. Approx 32 people total on the route Saturday June 6, passed and was passed by multiple teams. Mitigated by numerous alternate (and more fun!) routes up the face, climbers should be prepared to climb 5.5 on fixed line to expedite. Rapping all but the leader off other points can help too. Off-weekend scheduling as suggested in the prospectus is a very good idea. Rockfall does happen. My helmet will testify. Glenn Widener | June 2015 |
| Expected Duration | Car to car in one day |
| Relevant Books | Selected Climbs in the North Cascades by Nelson and Potterfield Cascade Alpine Guide: Columbia River to Stevens Pass by Fred Beckey |
| Relevant Maps | Green Trails, or USGS 7.5 minute series, Snoqualmie Pass Google map https://goo.gl/maps/zRPzqQFFinD2 |
| Useful Links | GPS Track GPS Coordinates Map |
