The Kautz Glacier route is a popular choice for intermediate climbers, offering more technical challenges and a LOT fewer people then the popular Emmons and DC routes.

Activity Notes

Mt. Rainier, Kautz Glacier: grade IV, steep snow, glacier terrain, occasional AI-2

This climb requires:

  • moderate-to-strong physical fitness: all-day energy
  • high altitude climbing
  • crevasse rescue skills
  • moderate amount of snow climbing experience
  • alpine ice 2 climbing experience
  • alpine camping skills

Approximate timeline:

  1. Day 1: leave PDX early, gear up at trailhead, ascend 5 miles / +6400' to camp.
  2. Day 2: alpine start, break camp, summit push, descend to Ingraham Flats camp.
  3. Day 3: Break camp, descend to paradise.

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As a note, when assembling climbers for a Mazama climb, I deliberately strive for a diverse, and balanced team. I principally take into consideration an individual's physical fitness, skill level for the route, and how they can contribute to the climb team’s diversity. Diversity consideration especially applies to the selection of the assistant and lead climber(s), to help expand the diversity in prospective Climb Leaders in the Mazamas.

If you have any questions, feel free to contact me, or the assistant.

Other Information
Driving Distance from Portland 150 miles
Driving Time from Portland 3 hours
Expected Duration Car to car in two or more days
Relevant Books Selected Climbs in the Cascades Volume 2 by Nelson and Potterfield Cascade Alpine Guide, Volume 1 by Fred Beckey
Relevant Maps USGS 7 minute series, Mt. Rainier East and West <href="http: "="" adventure="" c463="" starts-here="" title="On the Mazama Climbing and Hiking map page " www.mazamas.org="" your="">On the Mazama Climbing and Hiking map page <href="http: maps.google.com="" maps?f="q&source=s_q&hl=en&geocode=&q=Mt.+Rainier&sll=37.0625,-95.677068&sspn=40.732051,93.164063&ie=UTF8&ll=46.849802,-121.757483&spn=0.017229,0.04549&t=p&z=15&iwloc=A"" title="Google map">Google map</href="http:></href="http:>
Awards Qualified 16 Major NW Peaks
Useful Links