Mazamas — For the Love of Mountains
Unicorn Peak, the highest point in the Tatoosh Range on the southern end of Mt. Rain-Here National Park, is a fine choice for an easy snow-rock climb. "A good early season ascent", says Beckey. If you try it in late season, most or all of the snow will be gone and the pitch or two of 35-40 degree snow will not be an issue - but the tedious scree will be exposed.
Along with a park entrance fee, all of the Tatoosh peaks offer spectacular views of Mt. Rainier - on clear days. If you are a backcountry skier or boarder, bring your toys if you try this climb in early season (before mid June) - the bowls west of the main peak are beautiful. Climb the summit pinnacle on the east side, which is around to the right (counterclockwise) from where you approach it from the south. This east side is mucho mas easier than the south side of the summit block.
A few small cams and stoppers are a good idea to protect the short rock pitch. Rock shoes are not needed. Short rap off the top. Great glissading in early season! "Tatoosh" means 'nourishing breast " in the local native American language.
Combine with nearby yet seldom climbed Boundary Peak for a doubleheader day of peak bagging, or for a long three peak day, add Stevens Peak at the far east end of the range. Check the Tatoosh Peaks for other options for Tatoosh climbing.
Activity Notes
We have one campsite with limited space at Cougar Rock Campground for Saturday night, and space available at other campsites following the climb for Sunday night. More details on acceptance. If you stay at the campground with us, please be prepared to share the campsite fee, no more than $10/night.
Plan to meet at 6:00 am at Snow Lakes Trailhead. Please plan to be ready to start hiking at 6:30 am.
The climb will move at a consistent pace, minimizing breaks but taking them as needed. After ascending snow above Snow Lakes, we will have a small scramble to the saddle, and then a traverse over to the base of the summit pinnacle. After that, some easy 5th class to the top. Then we will rappel the pinnacle, and descend the same route.
Robin and I will be leading an optionally linked climb on Monday and will be staying in the park. It is possible to return to Portland on Sunday, or to stay in the park on Sunday night.
Priority will be given to novice climbers (and a few more experienced). Diversity, equity, and inclusion will be considered in the team selection process.
| Other Information | |
|---|---|
| Driving Distance from Portland | 150 miles |
| Driving Time from Portland | 3 hours |
| General Route Info | The Tatoosh is a prominent subrange near Mt. Rainier National Park’s southern boundary. It’s a pretty mini-mountain range, with the world’s best view of Mt. Rainier. Unicorn, the highest and most enjoyable Tatoosh peak, offers relatively “painless” (your leader is not into pain this time of year) mixed scrambling and rock climbing in a spectacular alpine area (imagine a half-size scale model of Mt. Jefferson, close to the road). See Beckey’s Cascade Alpine Guide for more detailed look at this area’s geologic and climbing history. |
| Expected Duration | Car to car in one day |
| Interesting Features | Lake(s), Mountain Views, Spectacular Views |
| Relevant Books | Cascade Alpine Guide: Columbia River to Stevens Pass by Fred Beckey |
| Relevant Maps | Maps: USGS 7 minute series, Tatoosh Lakes and Mt. Rainier East; Green Trails: Mt. Rainier East / Packwood Google map https://www.google.com/maps/@46.744344,-121.7047081,15.14z/data=!5m1!1e4?hl=en |
| Useful Links | GPS Track GPS Coordinates Map |
