Mazamas — For the Love of Mountains
As of January 1, 2024, all climbers above 9,500' in the Mt. Hood National Forest are required to carry a permit. As a Mazama member, if you are accepted onto this climb, your permit will be included with your registration—you will not need to arrange your own climbing permit.
While this route can be a chore to get to and usually requires a car shuttle, once you are on it it's the most direct line to the summit of Hood. This classic route is exposed and continuous, and confidence on steep snow is required. Be sure and check if the road to Cloud Cap is open - in a big snow year it may not melt out until late June. Early season climbs are possible, although starting at Cooper Spur ski area adds an extra 2,000 feet onto your climb.
Activity Notes
From the top of Palmer, it is estimated that we might take an hour to the White River crossing somewhere in the area of 9000’ to 9200’ (including a 20 minute break to eat and harness up at the top of the lift).
After ascending to the Wy’East shoulder (basically at 9000’ on the Newton Clark), it will probably be rocky this time of year—again, we plan to find the most direct, but easiest ramp up. We will stay at this elevation.
The White River crossing is the only real route finding challenge; From the beta I received, it might take a team 1.5 hours to find the way down, across, and back up to the Newton Clark.
From here, head north toward Cooper Spur ridge—can’t miss it. Stay on a level traverse, around 9000’. Probably 1 hour for a roped team on this part.
It’s a long 2000’ up to the summit. It can take awhile. Probably between 2-2.5 hours for most folks.
The estimated time to the summit for a reasonably fit team, roping up for the glaciers, and team soloing up the ridge: 7.5-9 hours.
| Other Information | |
|---|---|
| Driving Distance from Portland | 65 miles |
| Driving Time from Portland | 1 hours |
| Expected Duration | Car to car in one day |
| Relevant Books | Oregon High by Jeff Thomas Climbers Guide to the Cascade Volcanoes by Jeff Smoot |
| Relevant Maps | USGS 7 1/2 minute series, Mt Hood South, Green Trails Mt. Hood, GeoGraphics Mt. Hood <href="http: "="" adventure="" c463="" starts-here="" title="On the Mazama Climbing and Hiking map page " www.mazamas.org="" your="">On the Mazama Climbing and Hiking map page <href="http: maps.google.com="" maps?f="q&source=s_q&hl=en&geocode=&q=mt+hood&sll=44.674285,-121.798955&sspn=0.018707,0.04549&t=p&ie=UTF8&ll=45.373825,-121.695642&spn=0.01851,0.045233&z=15&iwloc=addr"" title="Google maps">Google maps</href="http:></href="http:> |
| Awards Qualified | 16 Major NW Peaks, Guardian Peaks, Seven Oregon Cascades Peaks |
