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As of January 1, 2024, all climbers above 9,500' in the Mt. Hood National Forest are required to carry a permit. As a Mazama member, if you are accepted onto this climb, your permit will be included with your registration—you will not need to arrange your own climbing permit.
This route follows a meandering path across the lower Eliot and Coe Glaciers on the northeast slope of Mt. Hood, providing a long route with few other people. Crevasse negotiation, self reliance and good routefinding skills are needed. This can be a long day, so some parties like to camp on the lower Eliot Glacier and make a 2 day climb out of it. Bring a few ice screws and pickets for the top few pitches. A second ice tool for the leader for pounding pickets is a good idea.
Activity Notes
Exploratory climb. I have not done this route before. Climb prospectus and other useful info can be found here: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1-7k7GYPPhxo3taluGRELT4RRemX2MSc-| Other Information | |
|---|---|
| Driving Distance from Portland | 90 miles |
| Driving Time from Portland | 2 hours |
| Expected Duration | Car to car in one day |
| Relevant Books | Oregon High by Jeff Thomas |
| Relevant Maps | USGS 7 1/2 minute series, Mt Hood South Green Trails Mt. Hood, and GeoGraphics Mt. Hood Google map https://goo.gl/maps/xpHx8xu6pAz |
| Awards Qualified | 16 Major NW Peaks, Guardian Peaks, Seven Oregon Cascades Peaks |
| Useful Links | GPS Track GPS Coordinates Map |
