As of January 1, 2024, all climbers above 9,500' in the Mt. Hood National Forest are required to carry a permit. As a Mazama member, if you are accepted onto this climb, your permit will be included with your registration—you will not need to arrange your own climbing permit.
This route follows a meandering path across the lower Eliot and Coe Glaciers on the northeast slope of Mt. Hood, providing a long route with few other people. Crevasse negotiation, self reliance and good routefinding skills are needed. This can be a long day, so some parties like to camp on the lower Eliot Glacier and make a 2 day climb out of it. Bring a few ice screws and pickets for the top few pitches. A second ice tool for the leader for pounding pickets is a good idea.